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    Thread: Supermoto's 10g Nano

    1. #1
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Supermoto's 10g Nano

      Started this up a few months ago. I'm a total newbie with reefs. I've had planted tanks for 10+ years. So far its been going really well.

      Specs so far

      Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 10
      Filtration: InTank Media Basket
      Lighting: Aquaillumination Prime
      ATO: Hydor Smart Level Control with TOM aqua lifter pump
      Heater: Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 50-Watt
      Flow: Jebao RW-4 Wavemaker with Controller
      Substrate: Caribsea Arag-Alive




    2. #2
      jessegarcia28 is offline Registered User
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      Great start
      How do you like the light?


      Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk

    3. #3
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by jessegarcia28 View Post
      Great start
      How do you like the light?


      Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk
      I love the prime. And the iPhone app is amazing.


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    4. #4
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Added a IM reactor with some GFO and carbon. Also got some new corals thanks to John! Thanks again man.








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    5. #5
      leonel619 is offline Registered User
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      looks great!

    6. #6
      jkennedy1007's Avatar
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      awesome! nano buddy
      thumbs up

    7. #7
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by jkennedy1007 View Post
      awesome! nano buddy
      thumbs up
      Thanks man! I'm running it fishless for a bit because I thinks I have a parasite. Both fish I've put in it have died within 2 weeks. No signs of ich but I can't think of what else would be the cause. So I'm letting it run for a while with no fish.


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      jschnepf is offline Registered User
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      Tank looks great! Looking forward to a desert trip sometime next season.

    9. #9
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Supermoto's 10g Nano

      Started planing out a refugium. I've built a few things out of acrylic in the past. Going to build it out of all black acrylic except for the back panel where I will have LEDs




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    10. #10
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      Supermoto's 10g Nano

      It will be on its own weight not HOB

    11. #11
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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    12. #12
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Supermoto's 10g Nano








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    13. #13
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      This should do the trick for lighting




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      RussM is offline SDMAS Staff Member
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      You have what appears to be some moderately severe saw blade burn on the black acrylic. I can't tell on the clear pieces. That black is probably extruded acrylic, which is a PITA to cut using without burning it. I see you are using Weld-on 4. You will not get a strong bond using 4 unless those edges are perfect.

      I usually do rough cuts on the table saw using a 10" 80-tooth carbide blade then trim to the exact dimensions needed using a 1/2" spiral cut router bit. The end result is super clean edges - and good joints. This has worked out well for me.

      For future projects, if you don't have a good router and router table, or don't want to spend the big bucks for a plastics blade, carefully sand the edges with 150 grit then 220 then 400, (and optionally, 600) using a hardwood sanding block, being extremely careful to keep the sanding block square with the stock. Sand the entire length evenly - don't just hit the saw-burned spots. And, you can try using Weld-on 1802 instead of 4. The 1802 has the consistency of thin syrup and is much more forgiving of less-than-perfect edges than the water-thin 3 or 4, but it doesn't make an awful gloppy stringy mess like Weld-On 16.

    15. #15
      Supermoto is offline Registered User
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      Supermoto's 10g Nano

      Quote Originally Posted by RussM View Post
      You have what appears to be some moderately severe saw blade burn on the black acrylic. I can't tell on the clear pieces. That black is probably extruded acrylic, which is a PITA to cut using without burning it. I see you are using Weld-on 4. You will not get a strong bond using 4 unless those edges are perfect.

      I usually do rough cuts on the table saw using a 10" 80-tooth carbide blade then trim to the exact dimensions needed using a 1/2" spiral cut router bit. The end result is super clean edges - and good joints. This has worked out well for me.

      For future projects, if you don't have a good router and router table, or don't want to spend the big bucks for a plastics blade, carefully sand the edges with 150 grit then 220 then 400, (and optionally, 600) using a hardwood sanding block, being extremely careful to keep the sanding block square with the stock. Sand the entire length evenly - don't just hit the saw-burned spots. And, you can try using Weld-on 1802 instead of 4. The 1802 has the consistency of thin syrup and is much more forgiving of less-than-perfect edges than the water-thin 3 or 4, but it doesn't make an awful gloppy stringy mess like Weld-On 16.
      Thanks for the tips!! This was my first time working with acrylic I need all the advise I can get. Since it was just a sump I didn't polish the edges on that black pieces because I wasn't bonding there. Where I needed to weld it I threw them on my disk sander to polish the edges and make them very consistent. I took them down to 400 on my disk sander. Ill probably take them down to 600 next time. I was trying to use all tools I already had at my shop. I was shocked how well my band saw worked to cut it. and thank you weld on 4 was so hard to work with!
      Last edited by Supermoto; 06-10-2015 at 09:56 PM.

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