Anybody have any input on size, design, media and such? Would like to see pics of your guys freshwater sumps if you have any.
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Anybody have any input on size, design, media and such? Would like to see pics of your guys freshwater sumps if you have any.
In my experience with freshwater, I have never used a sump primarily because it is preferable to not have the water agitated too much. When it is, like when it goes through an overflow and tumbles down into a sump, CO2 is released into the air and it is more desirable to keep the CO2 in the water. This is mostly a concern for a planted tank. There are so many great cannister filters out there that that is how I would do a freshwater set up.
Dave
My current 130g system
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Thanks for the input. The only reason I'm deciding to drill my tank for an overflow and sump is so I don't have I later on when I convert it back to a marine tank. That way I already have everything I need to work with.
Planning ahead for the inevitable. I like it.
Dave
My current 130g system
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Digital Aquatics beta tester
If your doing 'heavily' planted, use a canister otherwise you'll never be keep your CO2 levels stable. If your doing a more traditional planted system (plus or minus a few plants) use a sump, wet/dry, and UV and you'll be good.
Ooops i didn't ever realize i posted this in the planted section. Well on that note thanks for the advice on a planted system. I'm still going back and forth on either planted or a regular African cichlid tank. I was even thinking discus but they are expensive so i dont know.
Slick..
I had great results using a 60 gal sump on a 180 gal freshwater mixed cichlids tank. It was set up exactly like a reef accept no skimmer etc. The main filtration was 2-8" 100 micron filter socks, bio ceramics, and carbon. Worked like a champ! Even had a snail population in the sump which kept them out of the display. Let me know if you need help with designing a sump or drilling your tank. Best thing about the sump is no water drop in the display!
Not much at all. I had a sand bed (play sand), rocks, and drift wood. All the good bacteria lives on those surfaces. It was a very simple sump. Plus if you wanted you could do a refugium in the sump to grow plants or bamboo and that would be your nitrate filter. Freshwater is pretty easy was the nitrogen cycle is completed. I have manzanita driftwood left over as well if you need some. Text me at 858-382-4676 and I will send you some pics of the set up.
I had a 120g with 40g sump, heavily planted. What DaveMorris said is true - a sump makes it more difficult to keep CO2 in water. If you were angling for low Ph fish like Rams, Discus, etc., then you might have problems (because you will need the CO2 to help drive the ph down). Another thing to think about with a FW sump and CO2 is the ph up and downs with and without lights. If you have no plants, not such a big deal. But with plants can be a big deal. Looks into plants that use bicarbonates from water column for food vs. CO2. They help stabilize. And CO2 dosing is another possibility, albeit an expensive one.
I went the sump route because I didn't like anything in the display tank - heaters, intakes, etc. I suspended my returns to a *just* enter the top of the water so they were barely noticeable. Plus when I swapped out the tank to SW, it was slick and easy - just a gentle vinegar, changed out the plumbing lines, and all done.
Cool thanks for that reply. Ya the only reason I'm going with a sump is to prepare for the inevitable saltwater switch. So I guess my only question is that is the co2 lost in the sump only due to water splashing and being agitated? I'm planning on drilling for a beananimal and the overflow lines are all submerged. So there isn't much surface agitation in the sump. Does that make any difference?
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