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    Results 61 to 75 of 741

    Thread: DIY Multichip LED Build

    1. #61
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bingles View Post
      Hey Ron I got one picture here of the most important issue/question. I made a make shift digital phone camera and part of an old microscope for picture, but you can still clearly see in the picture the gold wires dont have the gobs of conductive epoxy like all the others. this is the same pad that has the tool scrapping, the scrapping is not evident in the picture and dont care just saying the person was struggling on this pad that obvious. What I am concerned about is how well will the gold wires bond with the pad when there is no conductive glue, maybe works now but under normal use fails soon???? Like I said i dont have drivers till later this week and I am real concerned just asking.
      I understand this is a prototype, I know that I bought a prototype, all the rest look good but this one just doesn't look right and I am kinda worried about it. I got my others mounted on heat sinks and ready to go when darn drivers get here I wont fire this one up until AC-RC tells me what to do.

      Arrows in the picture
      RED arrows point to the gold wires touching pad
      BLUE arrows shows the conductive/glue that "MISSED" the gold wire completely (concerned about long term normal use)
      Green shows normal gold wire to pad attachment
      Yellow shows the "Gobs" on the substrate with the gold wires running over them (I don't care about this was just asking)

      This is a better picture but no arrows
      http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...terPicture.jpg

      I am not sure I can get a better picture then the second one but I sure the hell can try rigging something else up if you need.

      Thanks
      Brian
      Hi Brian,

      Also understand these parts are under warranty. Make sure when you fire these babies up, you have them attached properly to the heatsink. The warranty should protect you if anything odd happens to the part given you've take the prerequisite precautions of protecting the part.

      It's still difficult to see exactly what's going on in photo, but I would not worry too much about it. Looks like they tried to anchor down the wires with solder or conductive epoxy. There are different techniques for wire bonding. Again, I wouldn't worry about it. As for the gob of material, I wouldn't worry about that either. A better photo would help, but again, you're protected with a warranty.

      Ron

    2. #62
      Sonny is offline Registered User
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      Woohoo! My LEDs came in!


      I grabbed the Cooler Master TPC 812 and set the chip on the heat sink...perfect fit!


      I got to looking at the motherboard mount and guess what...it fit like a glove!!!





      Don't worryabout the chip being little off center, it is just a trial fit. Now I need to get 2 more heat sinks and a plethora of drivers!!!

    3. #63
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Smile

      Nice! That cooler is monstrous

      Ron

    4. #64
      Lasse is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by 007Bond View Post
      I'm thinking 5 channels combining 4 chips on 5- HLG-185-36B's and right now I have that DIM4 on my mind for controlling. It can control 4 channels, so I will have to double up 2 channels that will come on and power up and down at the same time, but I don't see an issue with that. Plus its cheap, and with its 2 on board relays I'll be able to turn on the cooler fans, and some type of over temp. shut down.(I think) I'm still want to see Janne's solution. Also I do have a rail and tilt solution in mind, but that will depend on the coolers. Speaking of which, are you testing your Zalman 8900? If it is compatible, and can be installed in the PVC pipe, it would make my rail solution much easier.---RICK
      Remember that non of the Meanwell´s driver (as I know) will dim to 0 so you need 1 or more timers or relays to plug into the wall I do not know the DIM4 but maybe you can use its relay´s to this also. I think that Jannes solution together with a timer card which can suport 4 driver cards is worth to wait for but it is wise to have a backup plan.

      The Zalman 8900 is tested with 3 A (not with Dream Chip but a similar chip) - but I do not know for the moment if it manages the dream chip at full power. But I´m sure that tentacles soon know

      Sincerely Lasse

      Edit: I talk to Janne just a minut ago and probably I will have a test card next week (or the week after)
      Last edited by Lasse; 09-26-2012 at 12:45 AM.

    5. #65
      007Bond is offline Registered User
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      Thanks Lasse,
      I'm always looking to your posts. On the DIM4 it has two on board relays, one is used to break the power side to the drivers, so you have complete shutdown. I'll be waiting for your tests on Janne's control solution. With the drivers I'm planning on,there could be 6.5A @ chip max.(1.3mA @ CHANNEL) I will need a cooling solution capable of +-225W plus some head room. Some channels could be full on, some half,...I don't know until testing, but I always try to build a worst case scenario. I'll be watching for Tom's testing on the Zalman. If it can cool the Dream Chip inside of the PVC pipe, my build... would become a whole lot easier. Thanks ---Rick

    6. #66
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      With Janne's permission:




    7. #67
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by ronreef View Post
      I'm wondering how this is possible? It's advertised as cool white, but based on the spectral measurement, this lighting should look predominantly blue.
      I'm not the expert by any means but that's the way I understand. You need other colors in there to get closer to white.


      Look at the Dream Chip spectral output for the 10000K and 15000K here. The profiles colored white represent the 15000K and 10000K channels. You can see the green and yellow spectral output are much stronger.
      The Al Vega spectral plot is correct. The plots provided by AC-RC are misleading for the 15000K and 10000K. You can see the yellow green range is prominent, but should not be. It's due to the residual current from the power supply cap. Instead of immediate shut down, the LED's dim down causing the yellow green prominence and the noise at the tail end of the plot.

      Ron

    8. #68
      007Bond is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by ronreef View Post
      With Janne's permission:



      Ron, is this Janne's controller? are you going to be participating in the testing?---Rick

    9. #69
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by 007Bond View Post
      Ron, is this Janne's controller? are you going to be participating in the testing?---Rick
      Yes, it is Janne's 5 channel driver. They are photos that Janne posted on the Swedish board. I'm not participating in any debug or testing. Janne assembled one board and is working on bring up, debug and test.

      Ron

    10. #70
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Some videos from Andreas first posted on the Swedish site: Benighteds_Dream_Chip_Build

      Both blue channels:


      UV channel:


      Both white channels:


      All channels:
      Last edited by ronreef; 09-26-2012 at 11:55 AM.

    11. #71
      grttsou is offline Registered User
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      Hello to all,

      I have read the thread on RC and I have just registered here in order to follow closely the whole process. Of course I read the whole article and here and I want to know how I could possibly have access in one of these multichips.

      By the way congrats for your patience to test all this stuff and share the results with the rest of the world…

      I am looking forward to see more and more tests…

      Cheers
      Tassos

    12. #72
      ronreef is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by grttsou View Post
      Hello to all,

      I have read the thread on RC and I have just registered here in order to follow closely the whole process. Of course I read the whole article and here and I want to know how I could possibly have access in one of these multichips.

      By the way congrats for your patience to test all this stuff and share the results with the rest of the world…

      I am looking forward to see more and more tests…

      Cheers
      Tassos
      Hello Tassos,

      Welcome aboard! Please check your PM.

      Ron

    13. #73
      007Bond is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by ronreef View Post
      Yes, it is Janne's 5 channel driver. They are photos that Janne posted on the Swedish board. I'm not participating in any debug or testing. Janne assembled one board and is working on bring up, debug and test.

      Ron
      OH,...that's his driver. Lasse had mention that he is building a controller also. Do you know what the physical dimensions are?

    14. #74
      Lasse is offline Registered User
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      The new version is around 8 cm * 8 cm (i do not remember the exact figures just now) The controller a bit smaller. You need a heatsink too and you need to feed the card with a DC voltage just over the FV of the channels (ie. 32-36 V) The card will be tested and because of the fact that the actinic channel have a slight higher FV can result in to much of heat if ju do not adjust the current of the different channels in the right way. Hopfully - it is possible to tests next week or the week after.

      Sincerely Lasse

    15. #75
      007Bond is offline Registered User
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      Lasse, Could you explain further. Does this driver replace 5 individual drivers needed to control the 5 channels separately?---Rick

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