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A vapor chamber, perhaps? That would be the best possible substrate I can think of.
Ok Ron. I'll watch for updates. Kind of like a present under the Christmas Tree with my name on it, a week before Christmas...use to drive me crazy! ---Rick
A few pics from my tests, all the images are shot with the same camera settings:
Full chip:
2,6W (100mA):
28.6W (1.0A)
61W (2.0A)
94W (3.0A)
0.7A single channel:
White 1, Vf = 31.6V:
Blue (4??nm), Vf = 30.9V:
Violet (420nm), Vf = 32.6V:
Blue (4??nm), Vf = 31.0V:
White 2, Vf = 31.5V:
Looks good. What are your plans for hanging the cooler? Will it be from the ceiling, or from inside the canopy?
Check out this Dream Chip build. The LED adapter looks very effective.
Benighteds_Dream_Chip_Build
Last edited by ronreef; 09-23-2012 at 12:22 PM.
As you can see here, I used extra long screws when fastening my adapter, this was not by accident, I'm planing to use these screws as anchor points for a lightweight frame built using anodized aluminum profiles, holding up two of these LED assemblies. This will in turn be attached in the canopy, I'm not sure yet how much effort I will put into making this test-rig beautiful, as it will only light my "while I'm building my real future aquarium" temporary aquarium... The priority here is accessibility as I will do a lot of testing and so forth on the rig and drivers...
The real rig will probably be a lot lower, probably using Noctua NH-C14 in the low profile configuration (only 105mm high) and built into a sleek "low profile" (relatively, as 120mm which I expect it to be, is not a razor thin profile ) custom fixture. I do like the simplicity of my adapter and will probably use the same technique when attaching it to the "real" rig...
Last edited by Benighted; 09-23-2012 at 01:57 PM.
Yay! Mine is on the way!
Looks like you machined it to fit. Good work. I'll have to ask my friend to mill one to fit this cooler:
http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vg...us.html?c=2182
Last edited by ronreef; 09-24-2012 at 07:30 AM.
I'm wondering how this is possible? It's advertised as cool white, but based on the spectral measurement, this lighting should look predominantly blue.
I'm not the expert by any means but that's the way I understand. You need other colors in there to get closer to white.
Look at the Dream Chip spectral output for the 10000K and 15000K here. The profiles colored white represent the 15000K and 10000K channels. You can see the green and yellow spectral output are much stronger.
Hi , so I'm planing on doing a build with 3 multi-chips on over a tank. I would like to connect all white together all blue together and violet together. I would prefer to use the least amount of drivers. Is it possible to get away with only using 3 drivers for the 3 colors?
Lets do the math. White and blues: 2 channels in parallel on each chip will be 6 channels in parallel to each driver. Around 21.3 watt/channel -> 700 mA/channel - 4.2 A for sicx channels and 128 W - 46.9 W/channel - 1400 mA/channel -> 8.4 A You need a driver that can give you between 4.2 A to 8.4 A and 30 - 36 V for the white and blue channels. Let us say that you want 1000 mA/channel -> around 32 W/channel - the driver should give 6 A. The Meanwell HLG-240H-36B gives 6.7 A and will give you around 1100 mA/channel and around 35 W/channel. HLG-240H-42B will give you 5720 mA/6 -> 950 mA/channel. HLG-185H-36B will give you 5,2 A/6 -> 866 mA.
The Actinic channel will be 3 channels total. 700 mA/channel (2.1 A) will give you around 22.7 W/channel - 1400 mA/channel (4.2 A) will be 49 W. HLG-120H-36B will give you 3.4 A = 1.13 A/channel -> around 38W/channel HLG-100H-36B will give 880 mA/channel.
You have to conect the channels in parallel mode.
Sincerely Lasse
Lasse, on the Actinic channel, if your looking to run at 1400 mA/ channel, why not use a HLG-150H-36B, it puts out 4.2A? On the other channels X 6 the HLG-320H-36B puts out 8.9A,/6 =1.483A ?---Rick
Forget the math, what's the answer?
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