DIY Multichip LED Build

[Screener]

@Ron, Yes and the same knucklehead had his post deleted yet again. Goes to show that reefkeeping cannot be that hard, right?

I am thinking to try build a Jarduino controller after reading about it on the UK reef site where Jamie, like Lasse, is pouring heaps of karma on helping reefers build their 5 channel controllers. Altruism as far as I am concerned by both gentlemen. here. I think Jamie was canned from Reef central too because he collected donations to try out and develop new hardware from suggestions from other reefers. His software is free and he doesn't sell anything but will help more if you donate to support his development costs.

The jarduino controller is probably for the adventurous few, as the cheapness and complexity of the parts and the wild west open licence parts vendors lack of quality control results in failure often during the build. But I'm feeling lucky.

I do have a power supply 36V CV up to 8.8A. I'm thinking to use LDD100H drivers for each channel. That will give me 1000ma max. And for two dream chips that should be up to 880ma for each wavelength channel using separate drivers.

Following Lasse's suggestion in the other place, I verified that my CV power supply could over-volt to at least 120% without tripping the OVP system. It seems comfortable at 40V (the fan is on fairly high at that level). Does anyone know from practical knowledge if the LDD1000H meanwell drivers will work just over 36V to supply the FV needed for the dream chips at 880ma?

Final question, Like Lasse, I have a 120Gal, but mine has a center brace about 2 1/2 inches wide. It's not so convenient to use three 100W DC's over the tank. With the power limitations to the multichips that I am planning, do you all think that two dream chips would be sufficient? Maybe I should use wider optics 90*???

thanks for your opinions

[Lasse]

@Screener:

Is it the 100 LED chip you will use? If you will run all channels at 880 mA you probably will have a FV around 34.3 - 35.1 V at the actinic channel. I check my 3 chips at a current (measured) at 860 mA to 34.3, 34.7 and 35.1. The actinic channel will probably have the highest FV.

The PAR reading I get for 840 mA (calculated) at a distance of 60 cm (24") and 60 degree lens was 392 and 406 (chip 1, chip 2).

With a 60 degree lens, 8" over the surface and 24" to the bottom you will have a cone with a diameter of 30" at the bottom. 4" below the surface - 14"

With 90 degree lens - a diameter of 47" at the bottom. 4" below the surface - 22.5"

And thank you for the good words

Sincerely Lasse

The RC thread: People ask for help for a multi chip setup - and get answers that concern 5 to 3 watts single LED For the moment I will not write anything in that thread

[acabgd]

Here some photos of my corals under the DreamChip...

[dwolson2]

For those using the jardrino and or ldd drivers, they are looking at a group buy for pcbs for the drivers.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...2222702&page=4

My audrino mega 2560? Is on the way! One step closer to being... LOL

[Screener]

@Screener:

Is it the 100 LED chip you will use? If you will run all channels at 880 mA you probably will have a FV around 34.3 - 35.1 V at the actinic channel. I check my 3 chips at a current (measured) at 860 mA to 34.3, 34.7 and 35.1. The actinic channel will probably have the highest FV.

I think then I may be able to get bye with the existing 36v powersupply.

With a 60 degree lens, 8" over the surface and 24" to the bottom you will have a cone with a diameter of 30" at the bottom. 4" below the surface - 14"

With 90 degree lens - a diameter of 47" at the bottom. 4" below the surface - 22.5"

Thankyou, I will try to work with your handy spreadsheet to add the calculation of refraction at the air/water interface to get more precise cone shape underwater.
With the 90 degree lens there will be a lot of light on the upper part of the front and side panes. Do you know what angle in water/glass interface will lead to total internal reflection?? I'm not wanting a lot of that light outside of the tank.

And thank you for the good words

My words are cheap my friend your actions speak for themselves.

I spent the evening reading nkd5024 thread on his new life arduino mega reef controller. Now there is a huge amount of knowledge for me to absorb.

Thank you for the comments :-)

Ha ha Ironic isn't it - the group buy- perhaps we should invite them to this thoughtful and reasonable forum host, sandiego reefs.
Might become the new central reef forum;-)
In my other hobby (Farrier sailboats) I saw just this happen when officious moderators thought that rules text more important than intent and spirit of the forum thread and forced an idea leader to secede and create a competing forum. </irony>

[Lasse]

@ screener FYI about LDD-H and input voltage

Sincererly Lasse

[ronreef]

Ha ha Ironic isn't it - the group buy- perhaps we should invite them to this thoughtful and reasonable forum host, sandiego reefs.
Might become the new central reef forum;-)
In my other hobby (Farrier sailboats) I saw just this happen when officious moderators thought that rules text more important than intent and spirit of the forum thread and forced an idea leader to secede and create a competing forum. </irony>

Well said! Perhaps renaming to "CentralReef.com".

[leedoherty]

Do you guys think this would work with the 50 led dream chip and jarduino
http://www.ledsee.com/index.php?prod...emart&Itemid=1
Or would the ldd drivers be better thanks Lee

[Lasse]

First "pirate" http://www.reefshops.com/dreamchip-l...come-true.html

This is not the same chip.

Sincerely Lasse

[Zeuthen]

Do you guys think this would work with the 50 led dream chip and jarduino
http://www.ledsee.com/index.php?prod...emart&Itemid=1
Or would the ldd drivers be better thanks Lee

Hi Lee,

It says input voltage 6-30V. You need up to 35-36V of output voltage for the Dream Chip, so unless they're using step-up converters on that board (which I doubt) or you are able to overdrive the drivers, you can't use it.

Also, having the drivers on an Arduino shield means you'll have to do power wiring from your Arduino to the LED fixture, which would be bulky if the Arduino is remote from the LED fixture. I'd prefer to have the drivers on a PCB separate from the Arduino, keeping the small driver board close to the LED fixture and connect to the Arduino PWM using eg. ethernet cable (8 wires in twisted pairs). Having the Arduino in the stand is practical if you want to use it as a reef controller as well.

Best,
Esben

[Zeuthen]

First "pirate" http://www.reefshops.com/dreamchip-l...come-true.html

This is not the same chip.

Sincerely Lasse

I wonder what it is, though... A scam or a genuine product?

Best,
Esben

[dwolson2]

The initials of the company are A.S.S....Just saying

[ronreef]

First "pirate" http://www.reefshops.com/dreamchip-l...come-true.html

This is not the same chip.

Sincerely Lasse

It was a matter of time before a copycat came out. Not really a pirated product as no one was making any cash or legally bound to the dream chip.
As far as the LED configuration goes, it's a copy plain and simple. I'm mildly surprised it took as long as it did for a copycat to come out.

I wonder what it is, though... A scam or a genuine product?

Best,
Esben

I'm sure it's a genuine product offered by an AC-RC competitor.

Latest from AC-RC:
"Ron, the dream chip manufacturer just call me over the phone that the shipment would be delay 1-2 days because the sealant on the chips so far does not completely solidify due to 96% humidity around here: http://www.hko.gov.hk/contente.htm but I can assure all of them can be dispatch on next Monday."

Ron

[leedoherty]

Hi Lee,

It says input voltage 6-30V. You need up to 35-36V of output voltage for the Dream Chip, so unless they're using step-up converters on that board (which I doubt) or you are able to overdrive the drivers, you can't use it.

Also, having the drivers on an Arduino shield means you'll have to do power wiring from your Arduino to the LED fixture, which would be bulky if the Arduino is remote from the LED fixture. I'd prefer to have the drivers on a PCB separate from the Arduino, keeping the small driver board close to the LED fixture and connect to the Arduino PWM using eg. ethernet cable (8 wires in twisted pairs). Having the Arduino in the stand is practical if you want to use it as a reef controller as well.

Best,
Esben

thanks for the advice must say i didnt consider the wiring will look at the ldd drivers again dont suppose anybody knows which ones i should be using thanks again Lee

[dwolson2]

LDD-H, And I would use the 600's which is what I am going to use on my 50