Well the remaining 2 fish I had in my tank have gone missing for almost 4 days so I could only assume that they died as well. It was my royal gramma and blue mandarin. So I'm just gong to have to start fresh with fish.
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Well the remaining 2 fish I had in my tank have gone missing for almost 4 days so I could only assume that they died as well. It was my royal gramma and blue mandarin. So I'm just gong to have to start fresh with fish.
[COLOR="#FF8C00"][SIZE=4]Yea... Don't touch my Mag Float.[/SIZE][/COLOR]
[URL="http://www.sandiegoreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?86511-My-New-70-Gallon!!-)&highlight="][SIZE=3][COLOR="#800080"][B]70 Gallon[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE][/URL]
[URL="http://www.sandiegoreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?86906-Pinstriping&highlight="][SIZE=3][COLOR="#800080"][B]Pinstriping[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE][/URL]
Definitely wait 8 weeks. Longest 8 weeks ever being fish less but it's the only right way
[url]http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?109627-150-Gallons-of-Entertainment[/url]
150 gallon all custom and brand new
[SIZE=5][COLOR="#008000"][B]KCCO![/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]
mandarins rarely (very rarely) get crypt (marine ich) because their slime coats are so darn thick. I would be really surprised if it died because of that.
You can speed up the fallow tank process by heating your tank up. If you have anything else in it, then go to the upper ends of the feasible temps - low 80s probably - and hold. The higher temps speed up the rates of the crypt development cycle. Personally, 6 weeks would be a minimum, if I have put with 6 weeks, I would probably put up with an extra 2.
You can also lower your salinity and raise the temperature in you tank... http://www.bestfish.com/saltich.html
ICK kills and stress the heck out of me... went through ICK in my 72 bowfront... almost everything died.... but yes .. cleaner shrimps and cleaner wrasses helped the rest of my fishes out greatly... I had to do a 10% water change every three days for a month... it was not fun... good luck ....
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I'm not a huge fan of increasing the temp with saltwater ich. It doesn't work the same way as treating freshwater ich with increased water temperature. Warmer water holds less dissolved gas. When fish have ich, their gills are extremely irritated. The combination of irritated gills and less oxygen results in a more stressed fish. A more stressed fish is less likely to get over ich. I always suggest properly quarantining new fish as this prevents ich from entering the system. It can also double as a hospital tank. In a hospital tank, I like to treat with hyposalinity and Seachems Cupramine. It's a two step approach that slows the reproductive cycle of ich with hyposalinity and the cupramine knocks it out. If this isn't possible, I like adding a UV sterilizer. It interrupts the life cycle of ich, and is completely reef safe.
Jeff
San Diego Reefs Moderator
SDMAS B.O.D Member
Sent from my Droid RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2
Just to clarify, one should do hyposalinity OR cupramine, not both at the same time.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
+1 ^^^^. Copper + hypo = bad situation. Learned the hard way... And if you use copper, get a test kit (and pay attention to what kind of copper it tests for...chelated and/or ionic...and match to your copper meds)
Being as Swiss (neutral) as possible, you are gonna get opposing opinions from many knowledgeable folks. For instance, I know of a few well known and respected authors who completely disagree on hypo. The 'newer' wisdom seems to be leaning to quanine based meds, with copper still a viable and useful option (get a test kit! ok, said it twice. done).
Yeah, I personally had a horrid time with hypo the couple times I tried it. That said, I also killed my share of fish with copper the first few times. I suppose it's all a learning curve either way. I just like copper better because it treats many parasites, not just ich. Plus, you can use other meds concurrently. Hypo + other meds, not so much.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
I've been using hypo and cupramine for a long time. Never had a problem.
Jeff
San Diego Reefs Moderator
SDMAS B.O.D Member
Sent from my Droid RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2
Luck?
I wouldn't recommend it. I honestly wouldn't recommend using any med in hypo.
Last edited by SDguy; 10-11-2012 at 11:18 AM.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
I was talking with Jeff about this last night, and wanted to clarify. When I say hypo, I mean specifically hyposalinity treatment of ich, which means 1.009 salinity for at least 14 days. This is as opposed to simply running lower than normal salinity, which you can do, with meds.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
I recently had an outbreak of Ich in my quarantine tank that I was treating with Cupramine. With the Cupramine treatment the fish were showing signs of stress and had a loss of appetite. I ended up losing two fish with the Cupramine treatment. I made a huge mistake by using the net from my quarantine tank in my main display tank. The end result was twelve of my seventeen fish were covered with Ich. I decided to go with the hyposalinity treatment in my display tank. Within one week there was no sign of Ich. The fish never appeared to be stressed and had no loss of appetite. Of my seventeen fish I had no losses. Cupramine is a poison with long term side effects and I highly recommend going with hyposalinity. To date the Ich has not come back and all of my fish are fat and happy.
This is what I did when my blue tang got it and it went away in a week. I would add two drops of garlic extreme, 4 drops do Zoe from Kent, 4 drops of Boyd vita chem every time I fed the fish. Let food soak in this for about 5-10 mins. works with misys shrimp or dry food. I got this recipe from a YouTube video. I believe it helps to have a UV sterilizer. Good luck!
^ you realize you responded to something almost a year old?
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