5 channel Multichip Panel Group Buy

[ronreef]

FYI: Thermal Grease/Adhesive:

Use good thermal grease to ensure smooth heat transfer from the LED multichip back panel to the heatsink.
Anything buy Arctic Silver is great.

If you want something more robust with better adhesion, use this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835100005

Ron

[Lasse]

This is not entirely true. If the color temperature of a light is given in degrees kelvin, it makes no difference at all what the source of that light is. 14,000k is the same whether it is a MH lamp, T-5 lamp, or LED's. The problem we all run into is that the manufacturers measure this in different ways under different conditions. Also, the amount of voltage applied to the different colors of LED's in one fixture or in this case one set of emitters, will change the color temperature as well. Just as the color temperature of a MH lamp will change as it ages.

In following this thread along with the accompanying thread on RC, it is apparent that the goal was to come up with a couple different choices based on what these LED specs seem to be. Ultimately anyone buying these will be making adjustments to the color temperature to suit their taste and the apparent growth and happiness of their corals. I am very curiously waiting to see how all of the different people in this buy will be using their new purchase. It should be interesting to see how the different assemblies turn out with so many people involved. I can't wait to see it.

I do not know if you understand what i mean with "fruit" value. As an example - with only mixing 3 wavelenghts in different ratios (RedGreenBlue) you can get whatever you want in Kelvintemperatures. The same K can you get with mixing more and other wavelenghts also. Our sunlight normaly refers to be at 6500 K but consist of nearly all wavelenghts in a certain ratio. What I try to explain was that you can get the same K with different mixes of wavelenghts - this has importances for how reflectant colors show up in our aquarium. In MH, fluorescent and LED different types of phosphorus techniques is used and the result can be that in a given Kelvin temperature there is different ratio of wavelenghts and therefore you can expect that the reflectant colors you have in your aquarium shows up i different ways. With "fruit" values I mean that at the value of 1 kg fruit - you do not know which different types of fruit this kg consist of. The same with Kelvin degrees of light - you know amount xxxxK but not exactly which type of wavelenghts it consist of. And if you miss some wavelenghts - you do not se its responding reflectant color in the same way and do not get the same color depht.

This with yellow hue in saltwater is one example. Its often due to humic substances in your water. If your 14 000 K lightsource not containing any yellow or green wavelenghts - you do not see it because there is no wavelenghts to reflect. But if your 14 000 K light source is mixed in that way that it contains these wavelenghts you see the yellow hue. (green+blue=yellow). If you use Ozon and take away the substances - the water is not yellow any longer - in spit of the fact that you have the same lightsource. If you take out these light sources in air, they normally looks the same also.

Of course - the thing that you take up is also true but i think we are talking beside each other

Orginally Kelvin temperature of light was defined as that temperature (measured in K) you had to heat up a true black body to get just that hue or tone that was actual.

Sincerely Lasse

[Lasse]

FYI: Meanwell LED Driver:

Meanwell is a very popular and reliable LED constant current power supply.
Carefully choose your supply based on your forward voltage and forward current needs:
http://www.meanwell.com/product/led/...FeVnQgod9hEAUQ

Ron

The popular ELN-60-48 (D or P depending on your control system) would fit well. If you run 1 channel you can trim down the current to that you want. Ie 700 mA for 20 watt on that channel and higher in order to use more of the chip´s potential.

Personally, I would probably not go over 900 - 1000 mA. 900 mA gives about 30 watts a channel - 150 watts for the entire chip. If you want to connect two channels (parallell!) you can use the max of the driver (1300 mA) and then give it about 40 watts into two channels. There are other options depending on how you want to run the chip - that is what is so wonderful with this design - choice is almost unlimited.


Sincerely Lasse

[Manne]

Ron!

Sweden Manne , friend of Lasse , 1chip option A.

Best regards
Manne

[PeterA]

Hi Ron
Peter From Sweden,
I'm up for 2x option A (dream chip)

Best regards
Peter

[ronreef]

Anyone interested please send me your email address. I will provide payment instructions via
email only.

Thank you,

Ron

[ronreef]

The information below was taken from this post: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...postcount=1219

I loved the idea of the Kessils. They were small. They were compact. They were point source like lighting. They were easy to mount over a rimless tank with the gooseneck and clamps that Kessil sold. I just loved the idea of it all. The cost wasn't so bad either. Compared to the Radions, Mitras, and others, even the A350 offered superior value. It made perfect sense to me at the time to go with Kessil. I ended up buying two A150's and I was happy. Then I wondered if I had enough punch in my lighting for SPS. Then I started reading this thread. Then I sold the two A150's at a loss but still managed to build two multichip light sources with the money I made from the A150 sale... with more power and flexibility to boot.

At first I was worried about the aesthetics of mounting the heatsinks above the rimless tank. As you can see from my photos in a previous post, it looks pretty darn good.

Glad I read this thread.

Hypothetical Build Cost:

Kessil A350: $399.99
Kessil Gooseneck: $34.99
Total cost: $434.98

VS

DIY build that looks good on a rimless tank:
EPISTAR 100W 10000K: $125
Lens reflector: $13.80
Meanwell HLG-185H-36B (Dimmable driver): $72.41
ARCTIC COOLING ACCEL-L2-PLUS: $25.00
Wall plug: $4.00
Misc power cord and wiring: $10.00
Arctic silver thermal adhesive: $15.00
Connectors: $5.00
Andoized aluminum angle stock for mounting to gooseneck (0.5"): $7.00
Kessil Gooseneck: $34.99

Total DIY build cost: $312.20. Throw in margin for shipping and emergency runs to the hardware store and lets call it $330.

You're still saving over $100!

Not to mention the flexibility in power for the DIY build:

DIY build power output: 93.6W-187W.
Kessil A350 power output: ~90W max.

...and the DIY build looks good too!

[Ted64]

Hi Ron
Tommy from Sweden
I'm up for 2x option A (dream chip)

[007Bond]

The popular ELN-60-48 (D or P depending on your control system) would fit well. If you run 1 channel you can trim down the current to that you want. Ie 700 mA for 20 watt on that channel and higher in order to use more of the chip´s potential.

Personally, I would probably not go over 900 - 1000 mA. 900 mA gives about 30 watts a channel - 150 watts for the entire chip. If you want to connect two channels (parallell!) you can use the max of the driver (1300 mA) and then give it about 40 watts into two channels. There are other options depending on how you want to run the chip - that is what is so wonderful with this design - choice is almost unlimited.


Sincerely Lasse

++++1000 The unlimited part---Rick

[Lasse]

A friend of mine was here today and shot a short video on my tank with his cell phone. Its not the best quality but it showns rather good how it looks under a LED light of 10 watts multichip. There is 26 white chip (10 000 - 16 000K), 12 RB chips 455 nm and 10 3 watts cree RB. the ratio around 2:1 (white/blue). I run the chips at 900 mA.

I think that some of you will understand the title.






@ 007Bond I meant the multicihp when I wrote unlimited

Sincerely Lasse

[007Bond]

A friend of mine was here today and shot a short video on my tank with his cell phone. Its not the best quality but it showns rather good how it looks under a LED light of 10 watts multichip. There is 26 white chip (10 000 - 16 000K), 12 RB chips 455 nm and 10 3 watts cree RB. the ratio around 2:1 (white/blue). I run the chips at 900 mA.

I think that some of you will understand the title.






@ 007Bond I meant the multicihp when I wrote unlimited

Sincerely Lasse

I see. I like the idea of being able to control 5 rolls individually in one chip for a color to my liking. I'll leave which leds to use up to you guys with a better spectrum understanding.

[Octoman4]

Why is every one who says they want one or a few brand new members? Seems shady, good luck

[50 cube]

I think that a lot of these people have been working on projects like this for a while. Many have been involved in a lengthy thread on reef central. I read quite a bit of it & they seemed to be very knowledgable on the subject. Look it up

[50 cube]

Just checked it out, reef central/ DIY section/ minimalistic multi chip DIY led build. Be careful,it's a huge technical read & it will suck you in & is very interesting.

[Octoman4]

I've seen threads to, just weird everyone that's on this thread is brand new ... I've read a bunch and seen you tube vids about the Swedes diy build