What drew me to the multichip panel that its point source light like.
No large bulky array of 30 plus LEDs to individually wire up. One supply
and done. Now, we have a chance to move on a 5 channle multichip design.
Each of the five legs can be powered independently! There is also added
flexibility to use fewer drivers by shorting different legs together. Short them
all together and use one driver!
I approached ac-rc, about doing a custom five channel multichip. They told
me if I can generate support for at least 50 pcs, we'd get 30% off each panel
sold. 35% off for 100pcs. For 100pcs, we'd also get an addtional color
configuration option.
Color configurations:
Option A: Dream Ratio
1) 20 x 10000K
2) 20 x 455nm (blue, beneficial to chlorophyll C)
3) 10 x 420nm, 10 x 430nm (UV range)
4) 20 x 445nm (blue, beneficial to chlorophyll C)
5) 20 x 15000K
Option B: (This option is only available if we reach 100pcs)
1) 20 x 10000K
2) 10 x 420nm, 10 x 445nm (blue:beneficial to chlorophyll C; UV)
3) 20 x 16000K
4) 10 x 430nm, 10 x 445nm (blue:beneficial to chlorophyll C;UV)
5) 20 x 10000K
If you need more detail about how the colors where selected, please check out this
thread on RC. The people there were my source of inspiration:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2128756
The maximum forward voltage/current for each leg (10 chips in series x 2 parallel)
is 36V 1400mA.
Pricing:
<=50 pcs:$174.40. Less 30% discount is $122.80.
>=100 pcs:$174.40. Less 35% discount is $113.36.
(Price includes shipping charge. Shipped directly to you)
Let me know if you're seriously interested and I'll put you on the group buy list.
Keep in mind, this if for the DIY'er.
For a basic multichip panel build you'll need three addtional items:
1)A heatsink efficient enough to dissipate the heat generated by the panel.
2)Power Supply. Cords, plugs...
3)Very good thermal grease or thermal adhesive to ensure good solid thermally effective contact between the
multichip panel and the heatsink.
Things to keep in mind for heat managemnet:
1) Recommend >=3.0W/m-k thermal grease and proper heatsinking in order to prevent overheating.
2) Ideally, the LED panel must be fastened down with 4 screws so that it will be flush and tight against the heatsink for smooth heat conduction.
3) The maximum forward voltage/current for each leg(10 chips in series x 2 parallel) is 36V 1400mA. Personally, I'd stay below 1100ma per leg.
That's still (5.5A x 36V) = 198W of total power. Very powerful.
This is my DIY heatsink solution for a rimless tank. I used an Arctic Cooling Accelero L2 Plus
mounted to a Kessil Gooseneck. Looks pretty good, too. The L2 plus is rated up 130W (for 50W panel).
Arctic Cooling sells another low profile cooler rated for 200W (for 100W panel).
https://picasaweb.google.com/1030484...eat=directlink
The benefit of the gooseneck is it's light, flexible and portable. You can easily move it into
almost any practical position you want. It's not fixed.
More info here in the sdreefs DIY section: http://www.sandiegoreefs.com/forums/...chip-LED-build
On the horizon, ac-rc will be offering these heatsink solutions:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1030484...eat=directlink
According to AC-RC, no update on the pendant coolers. (Updated: 8/26/2012)
The 220W coolers below are about ready. AC-RC is waiting for the LED adapter to arrive. Should be next week. (Updated: 8/26/2012)
The group will also be provided with spectral analysis on 3 random samples from the lot.
PM me if you're interested. Thanks!
Ron
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by tentacles
It is impossible to compare K from MH and K from LED. The technology is different and the K scale is a "fruit" value. It say a figure but not if it is banans, oranges, combinations of these or other. But - as I said before - in my eyes 20 000K has look more yellow than 16 000. Probably because its have more green wavelenghts.
