Neptune Apex controller vs. RKE vs. RKL.

[Vince16]

Right now I have my three LED pendants with 2 outlets each(1 for Blue/Purple 1 for white). I also have a coralife 96w PC fixture for my refuge. I want to run all 4 light fixtures threw my APEX with the ability to ramp the up and down. I also want the option to run 2 power heads off the unit in case I don't get the MP40's like I want. I will need an outlet for my supply pump up to my refuge. Eventually I will hook up my ATO which I will also need an outlet for the supply pump for that.

I will have my heater, skimmer and return pump hooked up to a regular outlet extension since I should never have to turn these off.

I looking for the unit were I can hook up a wireless router to it and have it connected to my desktop that way. I am running MAC/OS if that matters.

That's everything I can think of right now, Hopefully this is specific enough.

So glad I found this forum, I'd have missed so much without everyone advice.

Vince.

[JohnnyAirtime]

What brand/model are the LED pendants? As long as the driver accepts 0-10VDC dimming control, yes, the Apex will be able to dim them using ramps and other lighting control, such as weather profiles to simulate cloudy periods, and with some LEDs systems, it can do lightning effects. The Apex has the necessary ports built in (4 of them) With the Apex Lite and Apex Jr, you'd need the Variable Speed/Dmming Module (VDM)

This is good info right here... thanks Russ!

(it makes me want to 'try' an Apex - as I'm not ... nor have I ... used a controller, for any tank I've owned)

[JohnnyAirtime]

Right now I have my three LED pendants with 2 outlets each(1 for Blue/Purple 1 for white). I also have a coralife 96w PC fixture for my refuge. I want to run all 4 light fixtures threw my APEX with the ability to ramp the up and down. ....................

Vince.... after finding out (this is why I PM'd you) that you don't have LED "pendants" per-se... I'm not sure the controller will ramp up, or down your LED fixtures. I'm not an expert... but, the led panels (or fixtures) you have do have dimmable drivers. A good thing. Just not sure how your going to break them open to connect the controller to the driver itself. I don't think the drivers are capable. AND... your PC fixture, it's dimmable?! I didn't think they were capable of dimming.

I'd hate for you to go spend the cash on a controller, to find out it won't simulate sunrise/sunset like you had hoped.

What brand/model are the LED pendants? As long as the driver accepts 0-10VDC dimming control, yes, the Apex will be able to dim them using ramps and other lighting control...........................

His LED light fixture, is this type;

[RussM]

Thanks JAT. That's exactly why I asked. The only pendants I know of that directly support 0-10V analog dimming (the form compatible with Neptune and DA controllers) are the Ecoxotic 100w cannnon. With some hacking, those fixtures MIGHT be able to be interfaced with and Apex (or RK ALC)... it depends on if they use standard 0-10V analog dimming, 10v PWM dimming, or some other form. Unfortunately neither Neptune nor DA have yet come out with the add-on module which has a little robotic arms to turn those control knobs. :O

[Vince16]

And this is why this forum is amazing.

Thanks for the help guys.

Vince

[JohnnyAirtime]

Thanks JAT. That's exactly why I asked. The only pendants I know of that directly support 0-10V analog dimming (the form compatible with Neptune and DA controllers) are the Ecoxotic 100w cannnon. With some hacking, those fixtures MIGHT be able to be interfaced with and Apex (or RK ALC)... it depends on if they use standard 0-10V analog dimming, 10v PWM dimming, or some other form. Unfortunately neither Neptune nor DA have yet come out with the add-on module which has a little robotic arms to turn those control knobs. :O

.... one MAJOR reason I got involved in this thread, was to clarify Vince's needs and with what LED lighting. But also to make sure I design and order my 80 and 160watt pendants to be dimmable either with wireless IR remote, or to have the option to do so with a controller (or even both if I can). If one or the other.... I personally, prefer to be able to do sunrise/sunset dimming via programmable controller (as it's the most needed option rather then to dazzle friends with a wireless remote)

And this is why this forum is amazing.

Thanks for the help guys.

Vince

Yes... yes it is!! Lots of knowledge to share for sure!!

[RussM]

Right now I have my three LED pendants with 2 outlets each(1 for Blue/Purple 1 for white). I also have a coralife 96w PC fixture for my refuge. I want to run all 4 light fixtures threw my APEX with the ability to ramp the up and down. Your LEDs MIGHT be able to be modified to interface with an Apex (or DA ALC), but that would take some testing with a voltmeter and some modifications to the fixture circuitry. Your PC fuge light is a lost cause... flat out not dimmable.... ON/OFF control only

I also want the option to run 2 power heads off the unit in case I don't get the MP40's like I want. I will need an outlet for my supply pump up to my refuge. Easily done.

Eventually I will hook up my ATO which I will also need an outlet for the supply pump for that. If you have a standalone ATO, then there is not much reason to put it on controller power.

I will have my heater, skimmer and return pump hooked up to a regular outlet extension since I should never have to turn these off. Reconsider these... one of the great things about a controller is that it can react to changing conditions. I think we've all heard the horror stories about a heater thermostat failing and cooking a tank. If you have the heater controlled by the Apex or RK, you can program the controller to shut down the heater if the temp goes too high (and send you an email and/or txt about it too.) As for the return and skimmer pumps, having them controlled is benbeficial in a couple fof ways. For example, many people shut down their return pumps and skimmers when feeding. With the pumps switched on/off by the controllers, you can program the pumps to shut down at the touch of a button (or a few taps in the Apex iPhone/iPad app) and stay off for a programmed amount of time and then them will come back on when that time is up. You can even program a startup delay for the skimmer so that the water level in the sump has time to normalize after a feed cycle or power loss. This is important for many in-sump skimmers, which can overflow or not start properly when the sump water level is high.

I looking for the unit were I can hook up a wireless router to it and have it connected to my desktop that way. I am running MAC/OS if that matters. Neither Apex of RK have native wireless options - you can use a gizmo called a wireless gaming adapter (often used to get a wireless connection for game consoles like XBox or BluRay players) The Netgear WNCE2001 is my favorite. You can also use a different technology called HomePlug or PowerLine networking; these devices come in a pair - one gets plugged in near the router, the other near the device you need to connect. Both ends have an Ethernet jack to use for connecting to the router and other device. The two gadgets uses the house electrical wiring to communicate.

[DaveMorris]

Russ is right as far as the Apex being the best option for you based on what you want it to do. He is also right about not underestimating the value of having pumps, skimmer, heater, etc all on the controller for all of the reasons he stated. You will love it once you get used to it.

[JohnnyAirtime]

This post... and RUSS's information... are the two sole reasons for me now looking into a 'controller'

... however, at the same time I'm a bit nervous as I've seen those posts that recommend to limit (with resistors, not in the programming) the modules output (as some have metered it to provide OVER 10V... and are getting 12.X at full brightness/power).

RUSS is the man when it comes to helping others. I've seen his posts on other sites too... very helpful, very informative

[RussM]

... however, at the same time I'm a bit nervous as I've seen those posts that recommend to limit (with resistors, not in the programming) the modules output (as some have metered it to provide OVER 10V... and are getting 12.X at full brightness/power).

I know exactly what you are talking about.. (resistor and zener diode, FWIW). That "a whole zener diode is critical to protect your LEDs" thing was started by one person who had a bad module, and was extremely vocal about it for months Since then, it has become something of an urban legend. Yes, there are cases where a module is bad, but it seems that many cases where someone measures incorrect voltage, it's because they are using the wrong pins in the VarSpd port.

[d-man]

Heater on controller! A must!

[SunlitReef]

Love my Apex, but I also own an RKL for a smaller system. Once you go controller, you'll never go back. Good luck with you decision. If you go Apex, it's a good idea to check out the "New user guide" I found it very useful.

[specvjeff]

I'm now running an RKE on my display and an RKL on my quarantine. I set both up in Digital Aquatics myreef program. Made it very very simple. I picked up a net module today and plan on setting it up next week. Russ gave me a lot of good info and the exact products I need to make it work. I'll report back after I set it up.

Jeff
San Diego Reefs Moderator
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