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    Thread: Need Plumbing advice

    1. #1
      Photobug is offline Registered User
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      Need Plumbing advice

      I am trying to put together my new tank, and want to run my plumbing plan by you all before adding glue to PVC.

      It is a 55 gallon with two holes drilled on opposite sides. My plan is to run a main overflow directly down through the stand into a sock in the skimmer chamber. I am looking to add a gate valve to this line for fine tuning the flow. From the opposite side I want the other drain to be a little bit higher to act as a backup drain. Coming out the back I would put a 45 bellow the durso and then ball or gate valve on it. Then some flexible tubing going through an angled hole into the same sock as the main drain.

      The return will be out the pump which should give me about 500+ GPH with the lift and pipe. It will come straight out for now (through a UV filter mounted on the back a bit later) into a check valve, then over the back of the center of the tank with a 3/4" loc-line.

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      Right now I just want to get a rough layout up and running so I can begin cycling the rock and sand. Then fish the details when the sand and rock stabilizes. I'd appreciate any input.

    2. #2
      JohnnyAirtime is offline Registered User
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      Hey Jordan...
      Congrats on the 55!!

      I'm not sure I have good news for you, but the overflow you've got showing looks to be 1" or smaller?!
      If it's that small, you DO NOT need a gate valve, or any type of valve on the drain(s). There's no need to dial in (so to speak) a drain... Just let it flow.

      The supply or return, WILL need a valve. Specifically, because your drains look a little small. If they are 1" or smaller, they can't gravity drain very fast... and too much return water will overfill the tank itself (trust me on this!). You'll more then likely have to "dial in" your return flow, so that it drains faster then your returning... and then, god forbid your drain(s) don't clog with a dead fish, algae or food as you'll again be in trouble.
      • I'd use BOTH drains, as drains. And not use one as "backup".
      • Eliminate the valves on the drains
      • Add a valve to your return line.

    3. #3
      Photobug is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyAirtime View Post
      Hey Jordan...
      Congrats on the 55!!
      • I'd use BOTH drains, as drains. And not use one as "backup".
      • Eliminate the valves on the drains
      • Add a valve to your return line.
      Thanks Johnny,

      Yep both drains are 1". The return pump will be 3/4". I have a quiet one 3000 for my return pump. The pump has a way to dial down the return. Not sure how precise it is though. I want to be able to make the tank fairy quiet, thus the reason for the valve to insure there is no air entering the system causing gurgling. You think with both drains wide open they will be running full and quiet, I just need to regulate the return? If I am relying on both drains to work what happens if one of them clogs?

      One other concern I have is the overflow drains are threaded but the bottom of the screened overflow is about 3 1/2 inches below the top of the tank. Would the adjusting of the return flow allow me to bring the water to a level I want or do I need to figure out how to get the return screen higher?

    4. #4
      JohnnyAirtime is offline Registered User
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      Some answers for ya;
      Quote Originally Posted by Photobug View Post
      Thanks Johnny,

      Yep both drains are 1". The return pump will be 3/4". I have a quiet one 3000 for my return pump. The pump has a way to dial down the return. Not sure how precise it is though.

      JAT: You don't want to use the pump's small orifice to dial down the flow. It's not accurate enough. At minimum, use an inline ball valve. A gate valve is more accurate then a ball valve if you want pinpoint accuracy.

      I want to be able to make the tank fairy quiet, thus the reason for the valve to insure there is no air entering the system causing gurgling.

      JAT: The valve won't control gurgling or air... it'll mostly restrict flow. That's what you don't want. The drain, going through a vented overflow (as shown in your picture) will create more sound then a simple durso or open ended pipe. Simply because it's breaking up the water as it flows through. It's best to vent the drain, and be able to control the airflow (for lack of a better term) on the back of the tank via a PVC T. You can cap the vent, and drill holes in the cap to control the venting and noise.

      You think with both drains wide open they will be running full and quiet, I just need to regulate the return? If I am relying on both drains to work what happens if one of them clogs?

      JAT: Yes and No. If both drains are running "wide open", they have to be made to be quiet. No drain is quiet... it's in how you devise the drain, that makes it quiet. Water flow... isn't the main reason (IMHO) for noise. None of my tanks are noisy, and all use different styles of "wide open" drain flow. Some passing 1500gph or more. You should set your drains by manually clogging one, and setting your return flow. Then, you'll know if one clogs... the other (solo) drain can handle the flow.

      One other concern I have is the overflow drains are threaded but the bottom of the screened overflow is about 3 1/2 inches below the top of the tank. Would the adjusting of the return flow allow me to bring the water to a level I want or do I need to figure out how to get the return screen higher?

      JAT: You'll move the screen to adjust water drain flow.

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