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Yeah I might try that. They're in a 10 gallon QT tank with nothing but a heater, light, and powerhead right now, need to add some filtration... how fast is safe to bring the salinity down and how far down should it come? and how long should I keep them like that? Also... any estimates on how long they'll need to be in QT? How long before my 125g is safe for fish again?Originally Posted by SDAquariumRock
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The Garlic entices the fish to eat well... normallt when fish are ill they will not eat well and fade away.. some use garlic all the time..
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how bad of an idea is surgery?
I'm uploading a video since I couldn't get a decent picture of the questionable fin. It should be available in about 15 minutes
Last edited by theicecreamdan; 01-19-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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Bring the salinity down over the course of a few hours. It is a shock treatment after all. Here is a great article about this form of treatment:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume...linity/OST.htm
Read it in its entirety. Than start on it asap.
Things to remember while treating:
-Make sure ph remains correct. This means buffering!
-Watch Ammonia, and Nitrite levels.
-Use of RO &/or DI water preferred.
The fish need to be symptom free first. No idea when or if this will happen. Afterwords you will need to wait another 10 days.Also... any estimates on how long they'll need to be in QT? How long before my 125g is safe for fish again?
No good estimate on the 125g. If there are no corals or inverts, treat it with hyposalinity for 2 weeks. Also, run a UV filter or a Diatom filter. Use a pump, turkey baster, or power-head to blast the rocks. Get some of the ick in the water so it can be cleaned by the UV or Diatom. Ick is often in all of our tanks to some degree. If the fish is healthy and there are no other contributing factors, they should not develop the infection. QT all fish in water from your tank before introduction. This will lessen the chances of it occurring in the future.
Last edited by AquaticLifeTropicals; 01-19-2011 at 10:29 PM. Reason: included additional information
There are some corals and inverts so I guess the hyposalinity is out for the 125... do you have a recommendation on uv or diatom filter? where/what to get?
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http://vimeo.com/18984140
This was the best I could do for now.
yeah you can see it on the little ones dorsal. The rest of it is on his right fin, you can see it at about 0:28s
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A little hard to tell on that video. Of course, I do have poor eye sight.yeah you can see it on the little ones dorsal. The rest of it is on his right fin, you can see it at about 0:28s
Looks like you might have Brooklynella. If I'm right (& I could easily be wrong) than I would begin treatment with hyposalinity and formalin.
Hopefully other SDReefers will have additional input.
How is that fish doing? Is it gasping for air, is there allot of mucus build up on its skin? Those are both typical signs of Brooklynella.
If this is ich/Brook, surgery really wouldn't accomplish anything.how bad of an idea is surgery?
In my experience both work equally well (for ick). However, they both have ups and downs. The diatom filter can be used later as a water polisher (& wow does it do a good job!). However, it will not serve as a disease eradicator. A UV filter will kill most of the disease present in water. However, it will also kill positive things (like plankton). As a temporary treatment for free floating ich, I would usually go with the Diatom filter. However, for future problems (think disease and red slime), I would go with the UV. It's really up to you. They both cost about the same.do you have a recommendation on uv or diatom filter? where/what to get?
I can get you either item (I think). However, I don't have them in stock (would take until Friday to arrive at earliest, maybe monday). So, you could either try another lfs or you could go online. Unless you want to wait... or perhaps find a used UV available on the boards here.
Another thought for the future (when fish shopping). Always choose the most aggressive, largest and nastiest little bugger you can. If it's a bully, if it's eating well and it appears healthy, it usually is. In the animal kingdom, only the strong survive. At least that's how I have always chosen my specimens (& its worked out very well). Of course we have all been fooled at least once!
Last edited by AquaticLifeTropicals; 01-19-2011 at 11:12 PM.
Hard to tell, but could be lymphocystis viral infection.
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Good possible call.
View http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm for info on this issue. I did see a clown with this disease on that page. So, that might help you determine.
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he never seems like any trouble breathing, its really ONLY visible in the two spots on the tip of his right pectoral fin and rear dorsal. Its really tough to look at pictures of these problems on the internet because they all say that mainly gills are effected. Also all the pictures seem to be really late stage and you just see a clown covered in white spots.
Overnight the clump on the right pectoral fin seemed to decrease treated with copper and the salinity brought down. Also did a short freshwater dip.
I'll have to see what he looks like after school today, we'll probably look for some formalin and add that to his treatments.
The good thing is that nothing really seems to be taking all of this harassment pretty well.
The fish seems to be doing fine. I think I caught the problem fairly early. We have school allllll day today, so for now they're in the copper QT and we've begun hyposalinity. Hopefully tonight we'll have time to get some formalin. Is that a common item sold at most lfs? and out of curiosity for the future, would it be beneficial for treating ich or any other diseases?
This does not look like anything alot of people have mentioned. Of all the wild clowns I got from LA they either 1 had Brook or 2 had a fungus attached to their fins. Also have a yellow tang again from LA that came in with fungus attached to the fins that look exactley like whats on your clown.
ALL fish from LA MUST be QT'd. Most all fish from LA will come in with something. The wholesalers do not medicate or treat for Brook or anything. I would shy away from Brook just because you said it isnt breathing hard and dosnt have damage to the fins (frayed fins). Breathing hard and frayed fins is one of the very first signs of Brook and usually Brook will wipe your fish out in the matter of days. I would treat for fungus. Fungus is almost like cotton looking. Also DO NOT over medicate. Fish are just like us and can only take so much.
Here is a post with a few Vids of what Brook looks like. Brook basically starts to make your fish wither away. The clear boarder around the tail will basically melt away. I dont see anything like that in your vid. My fish showed that in the first day or 2. Also Formalian is NOT the only treatment for Brook. I used ParaGuard from SeaChem and it cleared it up in a few days.
Hope this helps a little. When you watch the vids notice the frayed fins. Thats classic Brook.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68905
Last edited by Acefspds; 01-20-2011 at 10:49 AM.
How do you treat for fungus?
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Any updates on the clown? Positive ID on the ailment?
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