How to improve this

[Therapy]

Need some help ! I took this pictures using manual settings. Trying to figure it out. To improve this photo, what of my parameters need to be changed, and to what ?

Nikon D70s
2008/07/27 17:44:20.8
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 G
Focal Length: 200mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/50 sec - F/6.3
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 400

[Nick_Kun]

where's the image marde?

- Nick

[Dakota]

Need some help ! I took this pictures using manual settings. Trying to figure it out. To improve this photo, what of my parameters need to be changed, and to what ?

Nikon D70s
2008/07/27 17:44:20.8
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 G
Focal Length: 200mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/50 sec - F/6.3
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 400

I don't see a photo posted

So my first bit of advice is to fully release the shutter

[Dakota]

oh... now it's posted

What do you want to DO with the photo? Rather, what is it you think you are missing, and want "fixed" If it's blur, it's most likely due to your relatively slow shutter speed with a LONG lens. To fix this, you need to be shooting at least 1/lens length, so in this case 1/200 or faster. You're already at ISO 400, so that may be out of the question. and it apears your f-stop is already wide open. Your lens is limiting your shot in this case.

Exposure is also a bit on the low side, maybe 1/2 stop to a full stop depending on what your subject is. You don't' have a clear subject in this picture as well. That will improve it (unless you are simply doing a tank shot to show live-stock)

[Techknowledgy]

Do you mean the avitar? Photoshop will help a ton. Here is an example with different settings. Just hit the hight notes on all color bands.

[Dakota]

As for color, that's sometihng you can change in the program that came with your camera (if you don't have photoshop). it's simply a color temperature issue. Marine lights are blue, and our cameras are mostly calibrated for daylight (5500K) and have a range from 3200K (tungsten) to around 10000K (overcast, open shade).

The specks are small particales in the water column MOVING throughout the exposure, causing them to stand out. Faster shutter speeds (and shallower Depth of field is SOME cases) reduce this. If you fired a strobe, it's called "back-scatter" and is the bane of the underwater photographer if you can't control the lighting direction.

[Dakota]

Do you mean the avitar? Photoshop will help a ton. Here is an example with different settings. Just hit the hight notes on all color bands.

That seems to be a good exposure for the highlights, but now its' flat and there are no shadows.

[Dakota]

Therepy, do me a favor and SEND me your RAW file. I'll check that for sharpness. My guess is, however, that its' camera blur ALTHOUGH shooting through tank glass will soften the image slightly, no matter HOW still you are. The only way to reduce this, is to shoot STRAIGHT into it, no angles up down, left or right.

[Nick_Kun]

Dakota
Thanks for reply. How does Nick take those pics that look "super extra crisp" with all the exceptional detail? Is that a program or camera function. Alright so I am using the "basic correct exposures" now its just ME then that needs to figure it ut.

Marde, definately a tri-pod works wonders, also a good eye, especially when you are doing manual focus. My best images where taken at night when there is no ambient light, just the tank lights. Flow turned off, shoot straight through with no angles. It takes time, but with practice, you'll get there.

- Nick

[Dakota]

Water clarity, and glass clarity (cleanliness) is also a factor in sharpness. keep in mind also that using an unsharp mask filter in post will also clean up the lines and edge, however, from the looks of your photos, they may actually still be blurry (unsharp mask will NOT save an out-of-focus image).


To send a file, go to your email, and type in a message like you normally would. Then there should be an 'attach' button or a paper clip icon denoting such. click on that and follow the instructions for an upload. attach the file and send it away!!

[Jessy]

auto setting is alot easier than manual settings.

Yeah I got that same revelation.

Marde I'm having the exact same issues as you when it comes to picture quality. I do have really good photoshop skills though that help save 1% of the shots I actually take. It seems even when I do use a tri pod, I still can't get a great shot.

[barometer]

I don't know guys, I get infinitely better results using manual modes than with any of the auto features on the camera. I think it's probably just a matter of being comfortable and fast enough doing everything manually.....there's a lot to it and it's easy to forget this or that step. Practice, practice, practice. That's the beauty of digital. Get a BIG memory card and just click away

[Dakota]

I don't know guys, I get infinitely better results using manual modes than with any of the auto features on the camera. I think it's probably just a matter of being comfortable and fast enough doing everything manually.....there's a lot to it and it's easy to forget this or that step. Practice, practice, practice. That's the beauty of digital. Get a BIG memory card and just click away

If you're using the in camera meter, manual modes and auto modes are the same thing in terms of exposure. If full auto, it does shutter speed/f-stop according to meter. In manual mode, YOU select shutter stop/f-stop according to the meter. you also have control to under/over expose in manual, but there's a way to do it on other modes too. My favorite mode (when using IN camera meter, depending on if I'm using flash, in a consistence lighting environment) is Aperture priority. I select my f-stop, the camera denotes the shutter speed to expose for the meter. But then I have control whether or not to tell the camera to increase/decrease shutter speed if I want to over/under expose. This works with TTL flashes, too (but it has it's own +/- bar, seperate from ambient reading.

Using auto mode does NOT make pictures come out blurry, UNLESS, the camera is using too slow of a shutter speed, but if your lens can't open up any furhter, and your ISO is maxed, you'd have no choice in manual mode either. Solution: More light; Faster lens.

[barometer]

Can't argue with that Eric, I use Aperture Priority as well if I know I'm gonna be staying in a certain aperture setting

Tougher to do with fish shots, but for static objects, many times I'll take LOTS of shots playing with different modes/settings just to compare the results. It really helps to actually see the differences that changing settings make

[Fish n' Frags]

Lately i've been shooting in programmable mode since my camera has auto ISO. I just set the f-stop where i want it and the camera sets shutter speed, ISO, and exposure. Seems to work out pretty well.