Balboa Park

[SDFISHMAN]

Went out today for a bike ride. Heres some pics..

[SDFISHMAN]

Can't forget the bike.

[Dakota]

Great shots. Are you using your histogram? A handful of those look underexposed a bit. the last few look a couple stops worth.

[SDFISHMAN]

I was playing withthe setting today. I need to figure them out alittle bit more.
I'll check out the histogram and see if I can doctor them alittle..

Great shots. Are you using your histogram? A handful of those look underexposed a bit. the last few look a couple stops worth.

[Dakota]

What settings were you using? Auto? Av, Tv?

I found that (depending on the subject) center weighted metering while using Av priority works best. I'll take one or two shots, and look at the histograms... I will, then, set the camera to +/- exposure to fix it, and then SHOOT AWAY!.....

[SDFISHMAN]

I use manual for my shots. I have never looked at the histogram. I'll check to see what settings I was shooting with.

[SDFISHMAN]

I fixed the first 4 pics..



Exposure Time = 1/100"
Exposure Program = Manual
Aperture Value = 2.97 AV
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV


Exposure Time = 1/100"
Exposure Program = Manual
Aperture Value = 2.97 AV
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV


Exposure Time = 1/100"
Exposure Program = Manual
Aperture Value = 2.97 AV
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV


Exposure Time = 1/400"
Exposure Program = Manual
Aperture Value = 2.97 AV
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Exposure Bias Value = -1EV

[Dakota]

If you are using manual mode (which is ALWAYS a good thing) you should have your ISO on you camera calibrated (using a zebra chart) and if you are in direct sunlight, using the sunny 16 rule ( 1/filmspeed @ f16) or an incident light meter (that is calibrated with your camera) Using the in camera meter on manual limits the exposure to what the camera thinks is correct. Most of the time, it's pretty darn close. But there is a good chunk of the times it is NOT. By using the histogram after the shot is taken, you can see if you are under/over expsoed, and adjust accordingly for the next shot. This is the benefit of using an incident light meter (as opposed to reflective, like your in-camera meter) since incidient meters are ALWAYS spot on if you meter correctly (pointing it toward your key light source).


Sorry if I've been technical lately, but it's IMO the Key to understanding photography. Once that technical stuff is in your blood, your creative side can take over and make amazing images (without post-production, or at least VERY little).