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Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
Those are awesome Peter, i give up....
Don't give up!!! You think I reset my counter on my cam when it hit 10,000 shots by giving up?!
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
LOL, ok but if those are from a point and shoot than i have a lot to learn. I've soooo underestimated your photo skillz!
Thanks MattLots o' practice...I also take multiple shots using various settings when the subject is important (ie red poppy fields outside of Barcelona).
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Fast moving fish are where my skillz and lens size fail me though....
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
point and shoots, in terms of image quality, are quite capable of nice shots. But it's their "auto-everything" feature that can dampen the wow factor when you hit the shutter. Understanding exposure and how it works, along with understanding light, and how it reacts to objects (specular, diffused, etc) is what makes a photographer good at what he/she does. That being said, never let a pre-conceived notion of a point-and-shoot ruin the philosophy and art that is photography.
So........does that mean you like them? *shifts feet uncomfortably while staring down*
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
lol. From my experience (being told how to make every image I make better, no MATTER how well it does during critique) I can say the following:Originally Posted by SDguy
So........does that mean you like them? *shifts feet uncomfortably while staring down*
composition is good on just about ALL of them. The background choice for a few of them are distracting, shows a bit of fence here or there (which you USUALLY want to avoid, not always.. exception to every rule). A few DO have some contrast issues, but this is a lighting thing, and a nice fill of a hand-held flash from an off-shoe TTL cord would fill them in nicely. It's a point and shoot, so I won't comment on sharpness, and those cameras are HARD to focus close on moving objects (so kudos for the sharp ones!!)
My favorites are the open field with the red flowers, the butterfly with red wings on the red flowers, and the bee in flight (this contrast MAY be savable in photoshop....). Good backgrounds here, clean compositions, and unique points of view!!! (yet kept simple) <--- the key to great photography.
I think the weakest ones are the white flowers, the last orchid one with the blacker background, and the light purple flowers with the fly on them. The reason is mostly to do with background, subject choice, and point of view (everyone has taken a shot of a flower like this. The idea is to PUSH and THINK outside the box).
In the end, the good images in the world are simply those which are considered good plagiarism.. because EVERYTHING has been done.... so it's our job as photographers to do it different, and to do it better!
here's all I could do with the bee shot.. if you have the RAW file, it may still work out.. a lotof damaged pixels, though, working with 640 x 480 compressed jpeg.. but you get the idea of the shadows being too dark:
Last edited by Dakota; 07-11-2008 at 10:34 PM.
Thanks for the pointers Eric!!
My favorite is the butterfly on the flower, simply due to the position. I just wish it had not been so overcast that day...sunlight would have really helped that picture!!!
Hehehe, the light purple flowers were not supposed to be the subject of that shot...it WAS supposed to be the brilliantly iridescent green wasp...but the damn thing wouldn't stay still
The orchids were a PITA to photograph because it was the same day as the butterfly....super overcast.
Hmmm, interesting about the bee....I'm not at all a fan of lightening that up so much...I think it looks bad
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
Cloudy days are your best friends, because you use the overcast "flatness" as your fill light, and you use your off-shoe strobe as your 'key'. You control contrast with your TTL +/- (or you can use manual controls). I love to shoot on overcast days (unless I'm shooting anything with the sky in it) because of the contrast control. Photoshop can also increase contrast and such, and warm up the cool color temperature quite well.
As for the bee, the file doesn't have the information to manipulate it correctly. The problem is that there is NO detail on the front (shadow) side of the bee.
You're gonna have to dumb that down for me Eric. Are you talking about using a hand held remote flash with a point and shoot?
Last edited by SDguy; 07-13-2008 at 10:06 PM.
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
Registered User
It's hard to do with point and shoots, unless they have a hot-shoe, or a PC cord output. You'd pretty much have to use the on camera flash to pop in front of a peanut slave (or other slave) to fire the off-camera strobe, but yes... what you said :-p
basically, what you are doing is using TWO light sources. A key light (main) and a fill light (ambient) You use the flash as the key light, and the cloudy sky as your giant diffusion panel for your fill. The difference (in stops) of your key to fill is what creates the ratio, or contrast (difference between key side, and shadow(fill) side)... Does that help any??
OK, yes, following you...let me dig out some I took with flash during cloudy days....
Peter
Salty fingers since 1989. Current tanks: 240g FOWLR, 15g QT.
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