150 Peninsula Build

[simplepleasures]

Well my friend and I spent a whole crap load of time plumbing my new 150 over the last two days and what do you know leaks everywhere. I believe the glue I was told to use is the problem. Now the question is how can I salvage any plumbing and re-seal all of the connections, and if so how? Can you just re-seal the outsides? Alot of the plumbing is connected to a Dart and will have some pressure. Any pvc experts please help.

Thanks,
Casey

[crstjohn]

What did you use?? What size piping? First you need to determine why you have leaks. If you used the wrong type of glue, I would not trust any joint to hold over time and unless you can get them apart and prepare and glue properly, I would start over, use all new fittings, and salvage any pipe that could be used for shorter runs.

[crstjohn]

Not sure if it would be a good idea to salvage parts. JMO

I agree, but all fittings can be cut off of the pipe runs and the pipe can be used where possible.

[simplepleasures]

Yeah this sucks. Most of the pvc is 1.5" and the type of glue I used was (green) transition cement. The reason I used this is because I have some ABS to PVC connections and was told by the store that this glue would also be fine on PVC to PVC connections. I don't know if I just didn't use enough or the person at the store was just flat wrong. Most of the connections on the CL started leaking before pressurized (I filled the intake with water and noticed them leaking, I was just lucky I decided to put the hose in the intake otherwise my wife may have killed me).

Thanks for the replys so far,
Casey

[simplepleasures]

Some pics

[Wulfhound]

Everything u did looks right, just the wrong glue u need to use Christy's hot red for Pvc and purple primer or you will get leaks looks like u could salvage some of the pvc. If you need any PVC I have some 1/1/4", and 1", and 3/4' laying around, I also have 1 0r 2 pvc unions u may have free if you need them. Just LMK

Todd

[crstjohn]

Bummer dude! This stuff is for non-pressure pipe, ABS to PVC. What do you have that is ABS anyway?? All components should and can be PVC. I recommend Christy's Red Hot Blue glue. Sets fast and can be used within a few minutes (better to wait an hour though). You don't need to prime for 1.5" pipe but it's better if you do. If you don't like the blue color, use Christy's Clear PVC cement, not as fast setting though. As with any product, read the label before you use it.

[crstjohn]

The wye is ABS. If I were to use any ABS fittings, I would use ABS glue to weld a MIP threaded fitting to the ends. Then use a FIP threaded fitting (with teflon tape) to join the pieces. This will require more fittings but will be a better system IMO. BTW, you are going to have a killer system when finished. Use your existing piping as a pattern. I would replace all valves and fittings.

[simplepleasures]

Thanks for the help. I am going to count all the connections and get new stuff. At least I used double threaded bulk heads and because I have everything laidout it shouldn't take all that much time to put it back together. Man this sucks, I have had 5 days from hell in a row. I guess it could have been worse.

Thanks,
Casey

[swissfish]

Keep in mid that check valves will leake over time and your whole tank water might end up on the floor (i asume that the little stubs on the bottom of the tank are your returns).

[dhuynh]

Been there, done that! I use the clear PVC glue now. It takes longer to dry, but it looks cleaner and just as good as the blue stuff. No primer needed.

The trick is to apply glue on both side of the joint, then insert and do a slow twist, then wipe of the excess with a wet towel. Before you glue anything, make sure to slip all the joints together, then use a marker to mark how far into the joints each pvc should go.

I replumbed my tank 3 times before I got it right. Lots of money and very discouraging... but learn from your mistakes. Good luck.

Thanks for the help. I am going to count all the connections and get new stuff. At least I used double threaded bulk heads and because I have everything laidout it shouldn't take all that much time to put it back together. Man this sucks, I have had 5 days from hell in a row. I guess it could have been worse.

Thanks,
Casey

[crstjohn]

Before you glue anything, make sure to slip all the joints together, then use a marker to mark how far into the joints each pvc should go.

All PVC pipe ends should be cut square. Use a chop saw or miter box and be sure to deburr all ends. You can use cutters but they tend to cut crooked. Dry fitting the pieces can be misleading as it can be hard to push them all the way together dry. Then when you glue them they will slide together further and you will be off a bit. Usually the dimensions don't need to be exact with PVC, Measure the female end of a fitting, they should all be the same for the same diameter pipe (1" or 1 1/4" I think), double the amount and add it to the distance in between the fittings. Cut the pipe to this size, glue and your done. This can be quickly accomplished with a pair of cutters.

[dj9264]

Swissfish is SO right!

Closed loop or not, that whole system down to those intakes is on the wood floor.

Your poor wife when she gets up one morning to the wonderful sound of a large water pump running dry. Then finds 1" of water on that wood floor!

The solvent you used will be the least of your problems.

PS. Love the MH hood/manifold.

[simplepleasures]

DJ and Swiss and everyone else for that matter,
The last thing I want is water to flood and the reason be because I didn't plan or know that it could happen. Can you elaborate on the reason there will be water all over the floor? If you see a flaw in my system please let me know. The two returns on the bottom of the tank are only connected to the closed loop and there are no check valves. I don't understand how water can be on the floor unless a close loop pipe breaks or a connection fails and that can happen to anyone of us.
Thanks for all the help
Casey

[Wes]

Is that Pam in the background???