You're trying to reduce ripple from the ballast output?
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You're trying to reduce ripple from the ballast output?
yep.
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You're recitifying it, and you need that big a cap to smooth it? I have an oscope that you could come over at use, if you like.
Just got the LEDs, thank god I knew to not look directly at them when I tested them.
Just ungodly bright.
Nice what type did you get, can we some pictures
No camera atm, but they are luxeon K2s, 1500 milliamp versions, 5 white and 3 royal blue.
whites are said to be 6500k, but seems a lot whiter than that, almost white/blue.
1.5amps each?!
Yeah, crazy huh?
Thats awesome where did you buy them from and how much do they set you back. I would love to see a more detailed plan of your design.
fried some LEDs, and i dont get why.
worked fine when i did a rough test on them outside the hood, but when i attached the aluminum heatsink i had them mounted on to the inside of the hood, 4 out of 5 of the white LEDs burned instantly but none of the blue ones did.
had them in a series.
+ wht(ok) blue(ok) wht (fried) blue (ok) wht (fried) wht (fried) blue (ok) wht (fried) -
Im confused now.
Strange that all but one of the white ones fried. Can you get hold of a DC variable power supply to test how many volts to actually apply?
You're in the utc area, right? If you'd like to meet, I have a lab to work in.
Could the white ones have different tolerances than the blue. Maybe they sent you the wrong ones?
Last edited by Trickman2; 09-27-2006 at 10:20 AM.
marked as the same, but ill send em an e-mail just incase.
There's a decently high chance of that. Blue takes a lot of energy to make compared to white or other colors. That's why masers came out before lasers, and then in lasers we got IR, then red, then green, and now blue.
Another thought is maybe the power was just a edge over the max and the blue could easily handle the extra power while the white couldn't. Also don't Power Compacts Voltage start off with more power to get them going.
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