Can I plumb from house to garage?

[goody]

Looking to get my SCA 80g build going. I want to plumb it to the garage where I plan to keep my sump, skimmer, and other equipment. I cut the drywall from the garage and saw that there is OSB sheathing on interior wall. Can I cut this or would I be breaking some code?

If this is allowed, should I just run the PVC through opening or should I use some support for the PVC?

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[BajaReefs]

I’d say cut away, just use the same size hole saw as the pipe

[OhioStreetz]

Use a hole saw the same diameter as the pvc exterior and just slide them through the osb will be plenty of support for them. I did the same thing with my 300 gallon

[davocean]

People do it all the time, but it could be an issue if you ever had a fire. Now you could do this in a shed outside, but your garage is supposed to be sealed off and not allow air to potentially breath fire into the main living area. Even if you use a hole saw and seal it, you have still have placed a tube that can breathe between the wall. This is why we have thicker drywall, fire rated entry doors from garage and other measures . It is my understanding this could deny your claim.

[goody]

Thanks for the replies. I wasn't even thinking of using a hole saw. I was thinking of cutting out the same size hole as I did from garage. Would there be any issues with vibration/noise using a hole saw?
Sounds like a better option according to Dave's reply with less air movement from garage to house.

[OhioStreetz]

Also I have the hole saw bits as well as the extension in order to make it through thick walls and your welcome to barrow them for the job

[seaArt]

U can always repair the drywall cuts. Just place the plumbing thru patch tape caulk and paint it will help with the fireproofing and stuff.

[BajaReefs]

Keep in mind to have the drain side at a slight angle for drainage flow

[goody]

Also I have the hole saw bits as well as the extension in order to make it through thick walls and your welcome to barrow them for the job

Appreciate the offer, but I think I should be okay on the bit.

[goody]

Keep in mind to have the drain side at a slight angle for drainage flow

I was planning on using 90° from drains through the wall and another 90° down into sump. This is similar to how I've run my drains in the past. Do you see any problems with this? I don't think that would give me a slight angle.

[davocean]

That should be fine. If it were me I'd use a hole saw just slightly bigger than drain, so a 2" drain I'd use a 2 1/8" hole saw, and caulk/silicone, and that should dampen sound or any vibration noise. You could also use spaflex same as PVC which tends to dampen sound and usually has a natural slope/bend, but either will work. I personally really like the spaflex as it gives wiggle room.
It would have been nice to start off w/ the proper size hole saw from the beginning for a perfect cut into solid drywall and not have to do a funky patch, so again if it were me and you have the option I would probably start over and run the drain a couple inches over from either side of your cutout, and that way you can easily patch what you did(hopefully you saved the square drywall piece) and that way you don't have drain on a weak patch area(hope that makes sense).
This is still fudging code just to make sure you understand that, just gotta say(You know being in the trade)

[goody]

Thanks Dave. I went out and bought some flex pipe. I can't move the hole to either side or tank wouldn't be centered on wall. I can probably drill the holes lower so I wouldn't have to use the cutout I made in the garage. I could patch it with the piece I saved.

Would you suggest plumbing the spaflex directly into bulkheads? Since I was planning on using the existing cutout in the SCA stand, there's not enough space to put in some unions and then the spaflex, unless I drilled holes lower in the stand.

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[davocean]

If you did hole saw or cut/notch the back of the stand you'd land on stronger drywall section and be able to use unions correct? Unions would be preferable for sure IMO, but I know it's a little more work and added expense. Judgement call, but I'd lean towards doing it that way.

[goody]

If you did hole saw or cut/notch the back of the stand you'd land on stronger drywall section and be able to use unions correct? Unions would be preferable for sure IMO, but I know it's a little more work and added expense. Judgement call, but I'd lean towards doing it that way.

Correct. I already bought the unions just wasn't sure if drilling a few holes in the stand was a good idea.

[davocean]

Most stands are made assuming they will be notched or bored in back for plumbing. They add some shear strength as long as the main perimeter is still connected to sides, top and bottom. Holesaw or cutouts are common and shouldn't change anything there.