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    Thread: 150 gallon square stand?

    1. #1
      Puff_love is offline Registered User
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      150 gallon square stand?

      Hello all! Just bought a 36x36x27 glass (7/16 thick) aquarium. Going to be making a wooden stand for this thing. I am not savvy about wood working or structural integrity. I am good with my hand, just a lack of wood knowledge. I would like 2 inches around the base of the tank. I guess you could call it a lip. I guess 38 inches square. I need the stand to be 46 inches tall. I would like a baseboard on the bottom for my sump/equipment and a shelf above it for chems, plugs, other items. Is there anyone that has the ability to draw a schematic of what I would need and how to build this? Thanks in advance.

    2. #2
      Drama D is offline Registered User
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      Shelf inside the stand would depend on how tall the sump is going to be and what skimmer and drain options you chose.
      I can sketch out a rough drawing and cut list and post it here for you to get ideas. If you were closer. I'd offer to help you out

    3. #3
      Drama D is offline Registered User
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      Here is a super rough idea of a style I might use to build this stand. Basically a pocket hole (kreg jig) style build. I like this style because it is super strong and transfers the load of the tank through the legs of the stand and into the base and or floor.
      You would need a kreg jig to do this. Very simple imo.
      But yeah here is my rough drawing with sloppy diagrams and material cut list

      Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

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      davocean is offline Registered User
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      If you want 2" lip it would be 40" not 38"

      I usually advise solid framing landing directly under the vertical glass panels, usually if a 2x4 frame then I make it land in middle, and that bumps 3/4" outside it, and then frame skin another 3/4" and that makes 1.5. You could cheat that out some to make 2"

      If it's a non trimmed/rimless tank usually the bottom glass panel needs full support, so solid joists across middle, and I usually advise 3/4" ply on top to help ride over any deviations.

    5. #5
      Drama D is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by davocean View Post
      If you want 2" lip it would be 40" not 38"

      I usually advise solid framing landing directly under the vertical glass panels, usually if a 2x4 frame then I make it land in middle, and that bumps 3/4" outside it, and then frame skin another 3/4" and that makes 1.5. You could cheat that out some to make 2"

      If it's a non trimmed/rimless tank usually the bottom glass panel needs full support, so solid joists across middle, and I usually advise 3/4" ply on top to help ride over any deviations.
      Yep ^^^ he is right my measurements would only give you a 1" lip all the way around, oops, it was super rough. My bad

      Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

    6. #6
      davocean is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by Drama D View Post
      Here is a super rough idea of a style I might use to build this stand. Basically a pocket hole (kreg jig) style build. I like this style because it is super strong and transfers the load of the tank through the legs of the stand and into the base and or floor.
      You would need a kreg jig to do this. Very simple imo.
      But yeah here is my rough drawing with sloppy diagrams and material cut list

      Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
      Cool/helpful sketchup!

    7. #7
      Drama D is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by davocean View Post
      Cool/helpful sketchup!
      Trying to help, messed up his measurements, he would need to add 2 inches to the top and bottom frame to get a 2" lip all around. My mistake

      Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

    8. #8
      davocean is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by Drama D View Post
      Trying to help, messed up his measurements, he would need to add 2 inches to the top and bottom frame to get a 2" lip all around. My mistake

      Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
      All good we must have both been typing at same time, my comment was before seeing yours.

    9. #9
      Puff_love is offline Registered User
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      Thanks for the quick replies. Yeah maybe I was quick with the 38 inches lol. It is a work in progress and the brain storming has begun. A 4 inch wide shelf would be desirable for drips and testing. My tank has a black frame and would like that to be hiden by the shelf. Drama D that was a quick and detailed sketch. Thanks! It will be in my living room and three sides will be viewable. I want it to be real nice so my wife doesn't get upset lol. I will post some pictures of what I am looking to do.

    10. #10
      davocean is offline Registered User
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      Common mistake.
      Quite often people do that, or when doing a cutlist they forget to account for material thickness, so like a 40x38 out of 2x4 if you ran 40" on the long, the short pieces inside will be minus 3", so 38" becomes 35"
      If out of 1x material (which will be 3/4") it would be minus 1 1/2", so now the 38" becomes 36.5

      This is the number one mistake when I see people trying to get someone like home depot make your cuts, and then you get home and it's off.

      Your tank is trimmed, and this means you only need support at all 4 corners, the bottom floats, so center supports or joists are not really needed, and these tanks are more forgiving overall, good for first time stand builder.

      Glue when used properly is actually stronger than nails, so I glue all joints always, and I prefer the gold colored zinc coated screws over nails(pre drilled, and I always swipe my screws across a bar of soap which makes an easy glide going in, old timer trick)

      Good luck, post pics and or questions

    11. #11
      Puff_love is offline Registered User
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      Thank you!

    12. #12
      Puff_love is offline Registered User
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      http://imgur.com/a/PHMEIIG

      Took some images of my stand. I used all 2x4 wood. Should my 2 braces on each guide be 2x6? Pic 1 when i push and pull it is not as rigid as when I push and pull in the direction of pic 2.

    13. #13
      Puff_love is offline Registered User
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      It is not done. Have to add the bottom and top boards. As well as the middle shelving, and the wrap. Anyone know where to get some decent wood to cover the frame? Looking for a grey rustic look.

    14. #14
      davocean is offline Registered User
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      That looks fine.
      If you wrap in plywood, 1/2" or 3/4" and fasten w/ screws it will add a great deal of shear strength that eliminate most wiggling.
      Hd or Lowes have birch ply, and that can be stained to whatever you want.
      They also carry some pre finished distressed 1x boards in several colors including a rustic grey.
      Either will work and add shear strength as well as finish off.

      https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-C...d/N-5yc1vZchzq
      Last edited by davocean; 09-11-2020 at 09:05 AM.

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      So attach the plywood, cut holes for the doors, and then glue the look I want on the outside of the plywood?
      Last edited by Puff_love; 09-11-2020 at 10:40 AM.

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