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    Thread: RODI Install

    1. #1
      goody's Avatar
      goody is offline Premium Member
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      RODI Install

      Looking into purchasing an rodi unit now that I have the 80g tank up and running. Looking for input on installation. Laundry room is upstairs and other side of house, so thought I might connect it to my water heater. Can this be done and is it as easy as connecting to this fitting and opening the blue valve?
      http://www.seapicture.com/showphoto....151123&cat=500
      150g glass w/ corner overflow , 60g sump w/refugium, Eheim 1262 return, SRO 2000int skimmer, ATI Dimmable Sunpower 8x54w fixture, 2 Tunze 6105 and 2 tunze 6025 modded.

    2. #2
      oceanslide is offline Registered User
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      If under that cap is the same as the end of a garden hose they have adaptors that will screw on to that then connect to the rodi tubing. I just use the adaptor that came with mine that replaces the tip on my bathroom sink.

    3. #3
      goody's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by oceanslide View Post
      If under that cap is the same as the end of a garden hose they have adaptors that will screw on to that then connect to the rodi tubing. I just use the adaptor that came with mine that replaces the tip on my bathroom sink.
      So my water heater is tankless and after a bit more research found out that cap does have a hose fitting because it is a purge valve used to clean water heater. Looking further down the cold line coming in to water heater, I found flex pipe under the foam. Can I just add a fitting here? If so what fitting would be best?
      http://www.seapicture.com/data/500/m...403_220634.jpg
      http://www.seapicture.com/data/500/m...403_220606.jpg
      Last edited by goody; 04-04-2020 at 07:49 AM.
      150g glass w/ corner overflow , 60g sump w/refugium, Eheim 1262 return, SRO 2000int skimmer, ATI Dimmable Sunpower 8x54w fixture, 2 Tunze 6105 and 2 tunze 6025 modded.

    4. #4
      seanmcknew is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by goody View Post
      So my water heater is tankless and after a bit more research found out that cap does have a hose fitting because it is a purge valve used to clean water heater. Looking further down the cold line coming in to water heater, I found flex pipe under the foam. Can I just add a fitting here? If so what fitting would be best?
      So to answer your question you can in theory do this and just need the correct fittings. I would make sure if you have a part like in my picture you put that after your rodi fitting because it is for electrolysis between the 2 different metals and better to be after your rodi. In all honest though instead of going through all that they have shark bite fittings and you can cut and splice anywhere in the cold line and have push fittings connected and add a hose bib. The best alternative though is to solder if you can or know someone that can because then you dont have to worry about parts moving (they will with shsrk bite fittings and can with screw together parts. Also screw together parts arent copper typically and tend to corrode and rust faster. In my opinion do this in this order 1:solder in a hose bib, 2: shark bite in a hose bid, 3: screw together parts to add a hose bib. (Fyi I have a tankless water heater 2 that I installed and I soldered in a hose bib just for my rodi.)

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    5. #5
      DWILL is offline Registered User
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      Order a brass, stainless or plastic angle stop with 1/4 tube connector (push to connect) and put it between the copper pipe and stainless flex on your. Put it on the cold water side. My suggestion though is stay away from plastic angle stops. They are less expensive but easily strip.

      You may need a couple of reducers from Home Depot or somewhere depending on the size of the line.
      I’d also suggest you get John Guest or Murlok (sp). Both are available on eBay as well

      Here’s a example…

      John Guest Speedfit ASVPP5LF-US Angle Stop Adapter Valve Plumbing Fitting, 1/2 x 3/8 x 1/4 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1WRTBV..._hymIEbPMPMA5Q

    6. #6
      goody's Avatar
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      Thank you for your reply. Not sure if I already have that fitting for electrolysis. Looks like I have some brass fitting connecting flex pipe with tank valve fitting. I also don't have any easy access to exposed pipe to have someone solder in a hose bib. I will look at shark bite fitting. Most likely option 3 sounds best for my situation. Would it be best to get a tee fitting with Jose bib or j guest to rodi?

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      150g glass w/ corner overflow , 60g sump w/refugium, Eheim 1262 return, SRO 2000int skimmer, ATI Dimmable Sunpower 8x54w fixture, 2 Tunze 6105 and 2 tunze 6025 modded.

    7. #7
      goody's Avatar
      goody is offline Premium Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by DWILL View Post
      Order a brass, stainless or plastic angle stop with 1/4 tube connector (push to connect) and put it between the copper pipe and stainless flex on your. Put it on the cold water side. My suggestion though is stay away from plastic angle stops. They are less expensive but easily strip.

      You may need a couple of reducers from Home Depot or somewhere depending on the size of the line.
      I’d also suggest you get John Guest or Murlok (sp). Both are available on eBay as well

      Here’s a example…

      John Guest Speedfit ASVPP5LF-US Angle Stop Adapter Valve Plumbing Fitting, 1/2 x 3/8 x 1/4 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1WRTBV..._hymIEbPMPMA5Q
      I think this is what I most likely will do, but wasn't sure on fitting. You suggest one that has a 1/4" j guest connection. Is this better than a hose bib connection?
      150g glass w/ corner overflow , 60g sump w/refugium, Eheim 1262 return, SRO 2000int skimmer, ATI Dimmable Sunpower 8x54w fixture, 2 Tunze 6105 and 2 tunze 6025 modded.

    8. #8
      seanmcknew is offline Registered User
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      The fitting would be best. Also try not to use galvanized pipe fittings if you can use brass as that's the closet to copper without being copper. Brass fitting is not likely the electrolysis fittings which you might look into for your water heaters longevity.

      Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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