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    Results 1 to 13 of 13

    Thread: Par Meter to Borrow

    1. #1
      boochika is offline Registered User
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      Cool Par Meter to Borrow

      I'm looking to borrow one if possible or if anyone knows of somewhere that loans them out?

      I know it's not a cheap piece of equipment but I'd like to know before putting in corals to my tank.

    2. #2
      crabbysd's Avatar
      crabbysd is offline Registered User
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      I don't really lend mine, but if you tell me what you have(type ,height from tank, % , number of tubes etc) , I can probably give you a very close estimate of your PAR, and give you some info on how to test it cheaply if you cant find a meter.

    3. #3
      boochika is offline Registered User
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      12" from water surface. Ap700. Typical 80 gallon

      48.5 x 18.5 x 21.5

      My main issue is that there is a glass center brace and I wanted to see how it is affecting light penetration.

      Sorry also it ramps up to 70 percent for 4 hours during middle of the day.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      Last edited by boochika; 06-22-2018 at 09:10 AM.

    4. #4
      crabbysd's Avatar
      crabbysd is offline Registered User
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      At 12 in the max par from that light(its pretty impressively even) over a 48 x 24 rectangle is about 580-600 par 35,000 lux(at the waters surface and a bit dependent on your chosen color). glass if its clean will reduce light under 10%. that's intensity, all glass has a bit of green so the spectrum wont really be effected to influence your par spectrally.

      Imo opinion you have no lack of light. most likely you wont see much of a problem ever. I have a 2' solid brace, and yea, I get a BIG shadow dip. I also have solid 3/8 acrylic on both my tanks and i have VERY little loss to intensity and definitely very little spectral loss.
      the cheap way to test is a $15 lux meter. https://www.amazon.com/Sunche-Profes...85159192&psc=1

      divide lux by 60 and that is your approximate par. to work under water you'll have to either us a ziplock bag or (i hate spending money)a Milwaukee makes a water proof lux meter for $65-80.

      IMHO, Id wager you easily have a field of 100+ par on the sand and about 400+ par near the top. a VERY good starting point.
      If you run into trouble, Bleaching due to low nutrients in a new tank, greening, Id wager dropping the Peak intensity would be the easy solution. color choices on those lights effects par minimally.

    5. #5
      boochika is offline Registered User
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      You say low nutrients because it's a new tank. I'm running .03 po4 and 2ppm no3 should I feed corals at all since nutrients are low?

      Thanks for the advice on all this.

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    6. #6
      crabbysd's Avatar
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      Those aren’t bad numbers at all.
      I’d see how it goes. In a lot of dry rock fishless cycle tanks some folks have zeros and also true zeroes. That can cause problems obviously.

      Reefing can be a bit like music IMO. You can learn all the science and the math but a lot really depends on feel.


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    7. #7
      Emc is offline Registered User
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      Great info! Can I play too? I’m very curious about my setup

    8. #8
      crabbysd's Avatar
      crabbysd is offline Registered User
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      I’m actually giving a talk on reef tank lighting tonight at 7pm
      At the sizzler off of aero https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbi...&ref=bookmarks

      Not sayin it’s gonna be a good talk , but there will defiantly be talking. Lol.


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    9. #9
      crabbysd's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Emc View Post
      Great info! Can I play too? I’m very curious about my setup
      Absolutely!


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      inurmind is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by crabbysd View Post
      I’m actually giving a talk on reef tank lighting tonight at 7pm
      At the sizzler off of aero https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbi...&ref=bookmarks

      Not sayin it’s gonna be a good talk , but there will defiantly be talking. Lol.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Dang, wish I had seen this earlier...probably an interesting meeting there Jason, sorry I missed it...dang!!!

    11. #11
      Emc is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by crabbysd View Post
      Absolutely!


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      i a 4’ 120g with a 4” eurobrace. Aquatic life hybrid 48” fixture, two blue plus in back and blue plus/actinic in front-all ati bulbs. In between is a hydra 52hd in the center, with a hydra 26hd on each side. These split the distance between ends of tank and the 52 in middle. Ramp up to 100% blues/60%uv/30% white. Fixture is 10” off water line, considering raising after observing many of my corals

    12. #12
      crabbysd's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Emc View Post
      i a 4’ 120g with a 4” eurobrace. Aquatic life hybrid 48” fixture, two blue plus in back and blue plus/actinic in front-all ati bulbs. In between is a hydra 52hd in the center, with a hydra 26hd on each side. These split the distance between ends of tank and the 52 in middle. Ramp up to 100% blues/60%uv/30% white. Fixture is 10” off water line, considering raising after observing many of my corals
      lol. Not gonna take it easy on me are ya?

      SO each t5 tube (except actinic) generally gives off 150-180 par at 12in. its a nice field of about 500-600 par at the top of the tank. (many on you size would shoot for 700-1000 with t5 ie 6 bulb eight bulb.)
      actully not bad for a low light tank w 25 or so par on the sand if you burned them for 10-12 hrs. (if you used a lux meter, Id guess you see an average of 20,000-30k lux at the water line)and pretty even over the tank.

      the trick is the led of course. the AI have the typical hot spot, looks like at 100% the 52 at 12 in is over 1000 par with all chanells, the 26 about 6-700. so if the led is a a good heith to cover close half the top kinda evenly, they are probably fine. I preferr to fill the "square" as much as possible and then led it naturally fan out. If you have low rock work, closer is fine and ya punch the sand on the bottom with the hot spot. (clams like that)

      If you had a lux or par meter , Id set the leds at about 20,000-25,00 lux (400 par) maybe 500 par if its a high ligh tank. so that at the top of the tank your averaging around 500-700 par with both fixtures during the peak. that should give you the 100 or so on the sand for a mixed reef.
      http://www.aquaillumination.com/lighting/hydra/

      The low spots I dont worry about too much personally, like on your front back and sides on the sand, good for low light stuff. So if moving the lights is a pain I wouldnt unless you really have concerns about spread over high rock work.
      for led in general I like about 30-35000 lux at the water. about 500-600 par or so. If its a deep tank over 24, more.

      Im assuming your running a typical hybred set up, where the leds are on blue only for a while , then ramps into white, then t5 come on towards the peak? then reverse towards night. / (tube saver method)

      WIth my leds now, when i get too much light(bleaching or greening), i either shorten the peak on the led<( from 6 to 4 hrs), OR lower the intensity of just the peak.
      Ive not touched my program for two years or so except to change those two parameters.

    13. #13
      Idontknowtha is offline Registered User
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      I have a Seneye and an apogee quantum flux meter. I don't think I would loan them, but if you are close enough to university heights I might come measure things for you.

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