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    Thread: Plumbing For Closed Loop

    1. #1
      WanaLeime is offline Registered User
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      Question Plumbing For Closed Loop

      What is the BEST way to plumb for a closed loop system using an external pump?

      Should I drill a hole for the intake? wont that be a hazard for fish and wondering inverts?

      Can I run PVC from the pump, over and down the inside of the back of the tank (As intake)?
      or will I have to worry about priming the pump?

    2. #2
      Dakota is offline Registered User
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      I'd drill holes for intake and holes for output. Just make sure you put a large enough screen to handle the flow of the pump and diffuse the vacuum so fishies don't get stud to it.. plus, mine is behind some rocks, and my fish don't go there anyway.

      Yes, you can run PVC up and over, but the suction is still a problem for fish/inverts if you dont' screen it. Plus, that looks messy, so if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. I drilled my (acrylic) tank with everyone still inside. Just drained the water level to where I need it and the plastic shavings floated, so then I netted them out. The rest were filtered out by my sock.

    3. #3
      crstjohn is offline Registered User
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      What did you use to drill the hole and where did you get the bit? Can I borrow yours?

    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by crstjohn
      What did you use to drill the hole and where did you get the bit? Can I borrow yours?

      Dakota lives is Ventura. I think it would be cheaper to go to Home Depot to a $10 hole saw. I would lend you mine(Since I live in PQ), but mine are standard size (3/4", 1", 1.5"). You need ones slightly bigger.

    5. #5
      crstjohn is offline Registered User
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      Based on my limited research with Ridout plastics website, I don't think we should use standard wood/metal bits on acrylic. They say that these bits may start a crack which could run similar to glass. Has anyone used std. bits? Any problems?

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by crstjohn
      Based on my limited research with Ridout plastics website, I don't think we should use standard wood/metal bits on acrylic. They say that these bits may start a crack which could run similar to glass. Has anyone used std. bits? Any problems?

      I drilled mine with standard hole saw (actually my neighbour did it for me). If you do not feel comfortable doing this, I think AW will drill it for you for a small fee, $5-$10/hole. Call them first though.

    7. #7
      crstjohn is offline Registered User
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      Ridout says a std holesaw will work. I have these! Thanks.

    8. #8
      lucubrator is offline Registered User
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      Dakota drilled a tank of mine about a year ago, and I've seen no problems with it.

    9. #9
      Malladawg is offline Registered User
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      If you have an acrylic tank, I have an 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" hole saws you can borrow. Or if you bring the tank over we can drill it at my house.

    10. #10
      Dakota is offline Registered User
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      I have a 4 1/4 inch hole saw if anyone needs to make a large drain hole :P but seriously. . . it's quite a simple feat, drilling an acrylic tank and all. Just go slow and smooth. Never force the drill. Even, light pressure.

    11. #11
      crstjohn is offline Registered User
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      Thanks Malladawg, I have the tools. I had forgotten that I drilled a piece of acrylic for a router stand a while back. I have an adjustable circle cutter that worked well.

    12. #12
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      One thing you can also do is to put painters tape over the area that you are going to cut a hole thru. That will help stabilize the area that is being cut. Alot like putting a X of tape on a pane of glass so it doesn't shatter while moving it.

    13. #13
      Live Water Aquariums is offline Registered User
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      Run the hole saw at a high speed with very low pressure especially when almost through the hole. Drill the pilot hole first- if you dont, when the pilot hole pushes through its easy for the teeth to catch against the acrylic and stop and then the drill goes spinning and it can crack the acrylic. you can also drill half way through from one side and then finish from the other side for a cleaner hole.

      Also if you use flex pvc from the intake hole to the pump intake with a slight loop-avoiding any 90* angles you will extend the life/eficiency of the pump.

    14. #14
      Dakota is offline Registered User
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      Quote Originally Posted by purplerock
      Run the hole saw at a high speed with very low pressure especially when almost through the hole. Drill the pilot hole first- if you dont, when the pilot hole pushes through its easy for the teeth to catch against the acrylic and stop and then the drill goes spinning and it can crack the acrylic. you can also drill half way through from one side and then finish from the other side for a cleaner hole.

      This is not true. The hole say has a drill bit as the "pilot hole" No need to pre-drill one. As long as you apply even, light pressure, you will not crach the acrylic. Like I said before I've drilled 4 holes in my tank while it was FULL of fish and livestock.

      Don't bother drilling from both sides, it's too risky. The little chips that will come off the back won't matter (which reminds, me drill FROM the INSIDE of the tank).

      The gasket will be on the inside, and that part will be nice and flush. This is not a complicated procedure, especially if your tank is emtpy. I've drilled a few tanks for people empty and it'd even easier. Don't sweat it.

    15. #15
      DaChrisDude is offline Registered User
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      I drilled holes in my acrylic with HD's cheapest whole saws...no problems 3 months later...

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