Steel stand question..?

[CMD2213]

Going to order a steel stand but my concerns are....

Go flat bottom and shim it...

Or ...

Go with 6 legs to dial in the stand to be perfectly level?

I have been debating going with legs, but my concern is 6 points will land on 6 different "WOOD LAMINATE" boards.


Would the weight of a 93g tank plus. A 30-45g sump indent the laminate causing and uneven balance?

Would it be fine or should I do the legs but add a type of flat brace across the 3 front and 3 back feet?

I just don't want to deal with a cracked tank or floor.


Please anyone with experience or knowledge share your pros and cons of either style. I tend to overthink everything.

[FDdragon]

I would go with a flat bottom. I think either way there is the risk of your floors showing markings unless if you put some kind of cushion under the stand. Legs will definitely leave a mark.

Its probably not going to be a problem but i would be concerned that one or two of legs will have more stress on them if you have to adjust/dial in the height. If so, is there a possibility the leg would break/bend and cause the stand to be off balance and cause issues the tank (if it doesnt fall). Probably a little overboard but thats a lot of weight put on the legs.

Those are my concerns....but ive never owned or seen a metal stand so not sure how the legs are designed.

[davocean]

There will be more pinpoint pressure if you use the leveler legs.
Personally I would go flat and shim, you're going to hide that w/ a skin anyway.

[CMD2213]

There will be more pinpoint pressure if you use the leveler legs.
Personally I would go flat and shim, you're going to hide that w/ a skin anyway.

Eventually I won't have a skin at first due to pricing

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[davocean]

Well I'd still personally go flat myself, just hopefully your floor is not so out of level it draws attention to the shims, have you checked your floor yet?

Some people do like those levelers, personally I see them as adding something that could potentially fail and that would be a bummer if one failed suddenly, that's my main issue w/ them, and they will imprint on some floors.
Another thing is you have to make sure you get a good grade of stainless or they will rust, and even good stainless may eventually rust.
There may be an easy way trim out temporarily cheap and easy if there is substantial gap, depending on existing floor.

[CMD2213]

Well I'd still personally go flat myself, just hopefully your floor is not so out of level it draws attention to the shims, have you checked your floor yet?

Some people do like those levelers, personally I see them as adding something that could potentially fail and that would be a bummer if one failed suddenly, that's my main issue w/ them, and they will imprint on some floors.
Another thing is you have to make sure you get a good grade of stainless or they will rust, and even good stainless may eventually rust.
There may be an easy way trim out temporarily cheap and easy if there is substantial gap, depending on existing floor.

Yea I'm going to move the couch this weekend and check how level the floors are. I know the wife wont ok a laminate rip up and slab piece exposed.
Is there a. Specific shim to use? Maybe ill.get one and match the color to the Powdercorating .

Do you have any recommendations for fasterners or something for a popoff door?

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[davocean]

Some people prefer the composite shims, but cedar shims work just as well IMO, and it would depend on what the floor is and looks like on what I'd use, which would be less noticeable.

No need to rip up laminant, and if you wanted to try to protect that even more you could throw down a sheet of ply cut to stand dims.

As for a pop off door I still prefer hidden cup hinges, and I use quick clip release w/ a soft close feature, not expensive, magnets are another option for steel stands skin applications, or even a french cleat system.

[CMD2213]

Some people prefer the composite shims, but cedar shims work just as well IMO, and it would depend on what the floor is and looks like on what I'd use, which would be less noticeable.

No need to rip up laminant, and if you wanted to try to protect that even more you could throw down a sheet of ply cut to stand dims.

As for a pop off door I still prefer hidden cup hinges, and I use quick clip release w/ a soft close feature, not expensive, magnets are another option for steel stands skin applications, or even a french cleat system.

Thanks for the input .


As for these hinges. Would there be any issues installing after the stands been powdercoated or should I try to decide on which on the have them installed prior to coating?

[davocean]

I would try to keep the powder coating sealed completely and not drill into it if you can, but if you do drill at least seal w/ silicone or something before any SW hits into it.

When it comes time for skinning I would either ply or face frame, and the hinges will mount to that, not the steel.

You can actually build a 3 sided free standing skin and not attach to steel stand at all, basically this is how even my wood stands are made, and this way you do not compromise the integrity of the steel at all.

Keep in mind regardless of which hinges you use all will eventually rust and will need to be swapped out at some point.

I spray mine w a poly clear to make them last longer.

I get my hinges from Timberline moulding in San Marcos, they carry a Blum knockoff that is pretty good and cheaper than Blums, soft close and quick release features are really nice.

[davocean]

This is basically how all my skins are done, regardless of steel or wood frame.
This way it's freestanding, no need to attach to frame, the weight alone and footprint is plenty to look and feel solid, you can't really tell it's not attached, and the cool thing is if you move or just need full access you can just slide it out away from frame.
So your hinged will mount to this, not the steel.

You can do the same thing as this w/ ply rather than 1x as I do/shown here, pretty much the same but maybe a little cheaper and easier depending on skills.

[Crazyone]

Are you doing 3 doors on the front and one at either end

[unbereefable]

This is basically how all my skins are done, regardless of steel or wood frame.
This way it's freestanding, no need to attach to frame, the weight alone and footprint is plenty to look and feel solid, you can't really tell it's not attached, and the cool thing is if you move or just need full access you can just slide it out away from frame.
So your hinged will mount to this, not the steel.

You can do the same thing as this w/ ply rather than 1x as I do/shown here, pretty much the same but maybe a little cheaper and easier depending on skills.

Quit showing off!

[davocean]

Quit showing off!

Nah, that one was being helpful, THIS one is just showing off!lol

[unbereefable]

^^always looks awesome!

[CMD2213]

This is basically how all my skins are done, regardless of steel or wood frame.
This way it's freestanding, no need to attach to frame, the weight alone and footprint is plenty to look and feel solid, you can't really tell it's not attached, and the cool thing is if you move or just need full access you can just slide it out away from frame.
So your hinged will mount to this, not the steel.

You can do the same thing as this w/ ply rather than 1x as I do/shown here, pretty much the same but maybe a little cheaper and easier depending on skills.

My skills with wood work can be compared to my drawing abilites... stickfigures so I'm s.o.l. there lol...But that freestanding skin looks good.

So even if I attach after the attachment will need to be replaced down the line either way?

I was just going to do a white powdercoat ing so it looks like it's meant to be shown off until I get a skin added .
I would like easy pip off doors by my daughter tends to touch stuff and I'd hate to have a door fall on her toes of her just scratch things uo by letting them drop so. I would have to research some locks.

Here is what was possibly going to be used in the photos down below. The metal was going to be like the ones used on off road vehicles and powder coated as well. The price was the only issue it added up quick.

In regards to the. Sump area. If I have to crossbars installed below. To.support the weight what's the best method he was going to use and 1/8th aluminum piece not he'd to perfectly sit inside which I would have silicone the seems around the outside to prevent and s.w. seeping through to the laminate flooring.

Are you doing 3 doors on the front and one at either end

I was debating. 2 front. 1 on both sides and leave back open.

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