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Hey what up reefers im thinking of buying a RODI System.
I was google them and found a 4 stage 74GPD value RO/DI system from Bulk reef supply. My question is, is that enough for a good filtration?
I read that the more stages the better filtration depending where you water is coming from, i live in San Marcos north county, does somebody else have this system?
What you guys think about it?
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I work for the SD water dept and we use heavy chloramines in the water. I know that the other water districts in the county do as well. Chloramines are not easily removed by RO unless you use a specific carbon block prefilter. Be sure that the kit you buy from BRS specifically states that it removes chloramines. Something like this.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-u...-1-micron.html
Also I use a 75 GPD RODI from BRS as well. They are very good units for a good price.
Thanks
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DI is key for reef systems. DI water is (in theory) pure when the total dissolved solids (TDS) are zero. Some of the ro/di units have a tds meter to check both the supply water going in and filtered water going out. Those are nice additions, but you can also get an inexpensive TDS pen on ebay that will work as well for checking the filtered water coming out. Either way, you need to test the water coming out to make certain the filter is functioning correctly. :coffee:
Good to know kris
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I have a 5 stage from brs, love it!
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I purchased the 4 stage Rodi from BRS but ended up buying the upgrade kit to the 150 gallon per day also added an extra carbon block.
I'm running 1 pre filter, 3 carbon blocks, 2 di resins, and 2 ro membranes with this setup I have zero chloramines
Thanks for sharing
I dint know anything about chloramines, testing for TDS or having a setup with different medias for filtration purposes. I am going to ask Vallecitos Water Distric for a water test results and from there i will take a decision if i buy the 5 or 6 stage.
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6 stage isn't necessary, it just adds another DI cartridge. The key to an efficient RODI system is remembering to change your prefilters regularly. Get a pre and post DI inline TDS meter. As soon as you notice the TDS start creeping up on the pre DI reading, change your prefilters. Changing your prefilters will keep your RO membrane unclogged and in turn will not burn your DI resin out quickly. Your DI resin will strip the water clean, but it will be used up quickly if you are sending high TDS to it. So the prefilters are important and many people do not realize when they need to be changed.
Get this
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dual-...m-digital.html
Agree w/ neil, all I've been using for years is a 4 stage, as long as you have a chloramine block you're good, DI is a must, TDS inline is nice, hand helds work fine too, I keep mine out of light and back flush to keep prefilters from clogging prematurely, some have an auto back flush.
BRS makes a very good unit, spectrapure as well, they have a refurb page on their site worth looking at, usually good deals there, but I would not hesitate on a BRS at all.
the number of stages is a completely irrelevant number. The quality of the equipment and consumables (filters) are essential to obtaining superior results. Stick with a reputable retailer such as BRS, AWI, Spectrapure, etc. and you will do just fine. Stay away from eBay!
I personally prefer clear filter canisters over the white one's so you can visually verify the condition of your pre-filters. Most give you clear canisters only on the DI side to save costs. Most importantly....The performance of your RO membrane is directly proportional to the depletion rate of your DI resin, so getting a quality membrane with high rejection rating is key (96-98% rejection is awesome, 90% not so awesome)
You may also want to consider getting a storage bladder tank if you wish to hook up for drinking water too.
Many years and much trial and error in these words. Happy to help,
Good luck
Kevin