My experience with RKL so far

I purchased the Reef Keeper Lite because my old temperature controllers died just in time for the heating season. I did not want anything fancy, no particular desire to monitor pH, ORP, control dosing etc., so I figured this would be a good solution.

Well, so far (my second day), it does what it was supposed to do and seems well built although it's all plastic. Can't get much for $135 (tax, shipping handling) in these days. However, the iTemp probe reads almost 2 degrees too low. I checked with a digital and a standard lab grade thermometer. If they can't manufacture a unit with a more precise temperature calibration out of the box than that, at least there should be a way for the user to calibrate the temperature on the main unit.

On the positive side is that it appears to work fine with my three Luxcore MH ballasts as sometimes interference can happen.

I will try to like it despite some frustration with the programming, lack of instructions and the temperature issue. I like the modular approach though as various functions can be added later if desired.

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Originally Posted by Tapio

However, the iTemp probe reads almost 2 degrees too low. I checked with a digital and a standard lab grade thermometer. If they can't manufacture a unit with a more precise temperature calibration out of the box than that, at least there should be a way for the user to calibrate the temperature on the main unit.

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You can calibrate it. It has been a while since I have done anything on an RKL head unit (I always do stuff with myReef on the computer) so I am a little rusty on the exact sequence, but you can highlight the iTemp probe and when you see a "TARGET" value, just input what the current temp is based on a known accurate thermometer and hit SAVE. That is all it takes to calibrate it. It is very common for a temp probe to need calibration, just as you would a ph, ORP, salinity, etc.

I found the calibration instructions. Now DA has capitalized the link on to how to calibrate the temp on RKL on their site. The key was to select RKL when it's flashing rather than "Modules". It takes a lot of playing withe the controller to learn the way it works. I bet it is easier from a computer, but currently I have no access to a Windows machine.

This is the link. The link in the Quickstart Guide is not functional so I did not find this link before:

http://www.digitalaquatics.com/downl...fkeeper-light/

Update for RKL, it's doing what it is supposed to do. For me simply controlling the lights and temp. Has worked flawlessly and I trust it. Must give it a 10 out of 10, especially considering the competitive price it sells for.

very unhappy with mine :curse:
Going Apex jr or better

what kind of controller still uses a old school j connector for dial up internet :confused2:
blows my mind peole like this hunk of junk:lol:

yeah its cheap...does that make it a right choice for your system?

oh and PC4 leaks power on two middle ports
still hasn't been fixed & they still ship
what gives! DA

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Originally Posted by jkennedy1007

very unhappy with mine :curse:
Going Apex jr or better

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What is wrong with it? What is doing or not doing that you don't like?

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Originally Posted by jkennedy1007

kind of controller still uses a old school j connector for dial up internet :confused2:
blows my mind peole like this hunk of junk:lol:

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The RKL doesn't use an RJ11 connector for "dial up internet". To use internet access for it you need the NET module which uses a RJ45, just like everybody else in the world to gain network access.

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Originally Posted by jkennedy1007

yeah its cheap...does that make it a right choice for your system?

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All depends on the system and what you want/need it to do.

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Originally Posted by jkennedy1007

oh and PC4 leaks power on two middle ports
still hasn't been fixed & they still ship
what gives! DA

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Actually it has been fixed in the PB4 and PB8 which will start shipping very soon. Just so you know, the problems that some people experience with low power devices on the PC4 occurs on everybody's controller, including the Apex. It is an issue with solid state relays. Like I said, the PB4 and PB8 do not have that issue at all. If you already own the RKL, you may want to look at upgrading to the Archon. It is compatible with your current modules and has many more features and benefits to it.

display is weak it only shows temp upfront on glace

I've updated and still have that leak, I tested again to make sure

I have two of the Pc4's and both are doing it on middle ports
another reefer I knows lights will flicker and misfire on his Pc4 "not sure if its updated or not"

I simple haven't trusted unit thus far "been a short ride 1 maybe 2 weeks"
it as a timer ,has a mind of its own some how/
due to the fact it was a pain trying programming through unit itself
and didn't trigger the next day when I got up.
maybe little frustration here with RKL on my end.

The connector is what im referring too of course it something from the early 90's
quite crude imo "dial up days"

Have friends that swear by it till this day , and will still use it.
just not up do par with my standards Id expect from a controller.

Probably would have favored more if I got there more expensive model with bigger display and features
but would rather spend that on Neptune gold after this experince.

sorry if I come across a a jerk , not the best with text and typing
Not trying to bash this RKL unit
this is my situation with it so far