My LED build for my 300g tank

[DaveMorris]

Well instead of dealing with the electric bills that come along with running four 250w metal halides over my 300g tank, I decided to run it with LED's. I have seen very few tanks lit with LED fixtures that I actually like. Most of them look too sterile and the light is not realistic. I work with theatrical LED lighting fixtures everyday and nobody has come up with a true replacement for tungsten lighting yet. With LED's the spectrum is too narrow and even when you combine multiple color temp LED's I still don't feel that it is possible to attain a truly wide spectrum light source that mimics natural light quite as good as halides or even T5's.

All that being said, I am going down that road anyway. I have done a lot of research into the various companies that sell DIY kits and parts and have chosen to purchase my LED kit from StevesLEDs.com. I do not like any of the commercially available LED fixtures and they are way over-priced for what you get. With a tank that has a footprint of 8' x 2' that is 30" deep, I would need way too many of anyone's fixtures to be practical. It would also cost me a small fortune and I have no desire to deal with that. The StevesLEDs kit that I bought cost me roughly the same as it would have cost me to replace my four halide bulbs and the wiring that I would need to install that system correctly. I also like the idea of building it myself. I look at it as just another aspect of the hobby that I enjoy. So, on to what I ordered....

Here is the exact kit that I got: http://shop.stevesleds.com/SPS-Grade-LED-Retrofit-Kit-Package-44-54-tanks-SPS-Retrofit-Kit-44-54.htm

I also added six of the Ultra Violet UV LED's and a single driver for them. Thought I would see if I can generate a little of that special "pop" with the corals. Along with this order I also purchased the Aquarium controller harness so that I can control the drivers with an RKM-ALC module connected to my RKE controller. Here is the link to the Aquarium harness:

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Aquarium-Controller-Interface-Harness-for-Steves-LEDs-Drivers-harness.htm

Here are the driver boards and aquarium harness board:
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Heat sinks are 1" square aluminum tubing with cooling fans connected to one end.
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They include literally everything you need down to the wiring, thermal paste, screws, nuts, and bolts:
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And the 400w power supply:
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Power supply connections:
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And here are the Luxeon ES 3w Royal Blue and Neutral White LED's:
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I also purchased lenses for all of the LEDs. I chose to go with 60 degree lenses and we'll see how they look. I will do some testing with them before I glue them on all of the LEDs.
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I will be posting shots as I go through this build. I like the way this supplier packages things together. Although they do sell Meanwell and Inventronics drivers, there is no reason to use them. The StevesLEDs drivers are designed to drive up to seven of the 3w LEDs and the driver cards are very small. This makes packaging up the power supply and drivers pretty easy in a small project box. They are also far cheaper and easier to design a system with than piecing together something with the other drivers.

[slicktoppomp]

Sweet. Looking forward to following this build.

[DaveMorris]

Okay so today I spent a few hours working on the LEDs. The first thing I did was figure out the spacing that I wanted for the LEDs on the heatsink tubes. I also drilled some holes in the sides to allow for the wiring to be mostly hidden inside the heatsinks.
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The heatsinks are cooled with two fans attached to the end of the tube. I riveted the fans in place and riveted the temp regulator as well. This little device will adjust the speed of the fan as necessary depending on how hot the heatsink gets.
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I also slapped a little heat shrink tubing over the connections for the fan power.
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I decided to use silicone in the holes once I had the wires run through them to help protect the wires and to keep the tubing sealed for better airflow.
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Once all of the wiring is run I will bundle them all together and run them through a braided jacket. I am going to put a multi-pin connector on it which will then connect to the driver/power supply box.

The LEDs are mounted on small stars that facilitate heat transfer to the heatsink tubing. They also make it easier to solder the wires to the LED without overheating it. The LEDs are very susceptible to damage from the heat from a soldering iron. Each of the two 40" heatsink tubes will be outfitted with three UV LEDs, fourteen Neutral white 3w LEDs , and fourteen Royal blue 3w LEDs.
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The thermal adhesive takes 12 hours to fully cure and I need to let the silicone dry. I finished mounting the LEDs, mounting the fan, and running the wiring on one of the two tubes. I need to get some more wire tomorrow and I will finish the second one tomorrow night. After that I will need to start on the box containing the drivers, controller card and power supply. I plan to do some testing tomorrow night to see what difference the 60 degree lenses make, if any. I will post some more updates on my progress tomorrow.

[cohenderson]

That's cool.. Can't wait to see the finished product!!

[DaveMorris]

Tonight I wired the second set and mounted the rest of the LEDs. Tomorrow I will start working on the power supply part of this little project. Gotta fire up these things up and see how they look.

[bbandu]

Looking good Dave, Are you drilling those hole by hand or with a drill press.

[DaveMorris]

I drilled everything by hand. Once I get everything built and installed I may end up changing it around depending on how it looks. If I do, I will probably have something actually machined real nice and clean.

[DaveMorris]

Well in between bouts with my back I have made a little more progress. Got the LEDs wired up and put the connectors on the wiring.
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I also started on the power supply/driver box. I mounted the drivers to a heat sink and got the bottom half of the box drilled for cable access and a power switch. I mounted the controller interface to the side of the box since it doesn't need a heat sink.
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Once I mount the power supply I will get it all wired up. It is a fairly simple set up to connect together. I still need to mount two cooling fans to the top as well.
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Hopefully I can get everything finished up by the weekend. :)

[unbereefable]

Coming along nicely. Where'd you get the project/driver box from?

[DaveMorris]

Coming along nicely. Where'd you get the project/driver box from?

I actually had one left over from another thing I did a while back. Larry (bbandu) offered to build me one. I think I originally bought this one at Fry's.

Time for me to get out there and start getting this setup wired.

[Radman]

I love your project. It might prompt me to copy it... I now have a mixture or 120 W fixtures and 72 Watt T5... I added the T5 to provide that extra SPECTRUM you've mentioned. I'll also be interested in the 60 degree lens... That is the one thing I've notice with my 120 W (1w) LED fixtures. The light is very "directional" If the LEDs had a wide spread and series of LEDs of a long length (like you have 40"), I would say that would surround the corals with even light from all sides.

Are you doing SPS.. I am so I would consider the 50% more LED upgrade...

[bbandu]

looking good Dave.

[XO PRESENTS]

Dave.. what a great start... very detailed.... looking forward to this build....

[DaveMorris]

Are you doing SPS.. I am so I would consider the 50% more LED upgrade...

I am going to do SPS. I only ordered the one kit, which is actually shorter than my tank, to see how they look and to gauge the spread of light. Once I see what they actually look like, I will order more according to the results. This DIY kit is very easy to use and I love the way the drivers are built. Now I am headed back out to get some more work done on it. I have to do what I can when my back isn't bugging me. :(

[Vince]

Looks sweet DM what kind of back meds are you runnin??-lol

[unbereefable]

When lighting big tanks, diy is the way to go! Dave would need probably 4-6 120 watt fixtures to light this tank. That's still 480-720 watts of juice.

Dave, are you shooting for "X" amount of watts here? I'm aiming for less than 200 watts to light my 180.

[DaveMorris]

Looks sweet DM what kind of back meds are you runnin??-lol

I'm on 10mg hydrocodone and 325mg of acetaminophin. (Also known as Norco)

And thanks for the compliment. :)

[DaveMorris]

When lighting big tanks, diy is the way to go! Dave would need probably 4-6 120 watt fixtures to light this tank. That's still 480-720 watts of juice.

Which is precisely why I chose to do it DIY. Also, I hate the look of most LED fixtures. I haven't seen any that I like.


Dave, are you shooting for "X" amount of watts here? I'm aiming for less than 200 watts to light my 180.

I am sitting at 184 watts currently. (Or at least it will be when they are up and running) I imagine that I will end up doubling that amount before I am done. Beats the 1000w of halides I had on it when it was set up before. However, I do miss the halide look. Nothing beats it!

[DaveMorris]

Tonight I was able to get the power supply mounted and all of the internal wiring done.
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One of the cool things about the StevesLEDs drivers and the controller interface is that they have a small power indicator LED on the circuit board.
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The three Molex connectors mate up to the Digital Aquatics ALC module for control via the RKE system.

Tomorrow I am planning on finishing up the second set of LEDs and getting connectors on the umbilicals from the power supply. I still need to cut four 2" holes in the cover of the box, two of which will have fans on them to facilitate cooling. With any luck I will be able to cut the holes without making it look like a 3rd grader did it!

[Radman]

I had 360w on a 120... probably a bit much... changed to 240 and 72w of T5s.... Its only been 10 days for the T5s but I think this is going to help.

I've talked to others who have described corals under LEDs as growing "thicker" instead of outward... and that is what 2/3 of mine have been doing... so I'm interested in getting a wider spectrum... and spread.... Thus this project is of great interest

[JohnnyAirtime]

I'm on 10mg hydrocodone and 325mg of acetaminophin. (Also known as Norco) .....
Pretty much all they are allowing now (from what I was told). No more 10/500. Also... my normal Rx for my bad right sacroilac.
... if it's really bad, I'll add a Flexeril to the mix. Often, I'm left (literally) standing in one spot until the meds kick in. A sad sight of old age. ;)

How long have you had your back issues Dave? And did any one thing cause it? ... Eh, this topic in itself needs it's own thread... er, website!


Which is precisely why I chose to do it DIY. Also, I hate the look of most LED fixtures. I haven't seen any that I like.

I am sitting at 184 watts currently. (Or at least it will be when they are up and running) I imagine that I will end up doubling that amount before I am done. Beats the 1000w of halides I had on it when it was set up before. However, I do miss the halide look. Nothing beats it!

Coming along nicely Dave!

I have to say, when I've always done the math... a DIY is either too much drilling and soldering for me, or too costly for the amount of light I need.
Which brings me to... didn't you say you want to do SPS? And, your only going with 184W of LED output, to possibly 360ish be end of project...?

I run 480W of LED over my 240 (8x2x2) and it does perfect. From spread, to output... to the amount of shimmer (and not one fan! super quiet!), just amazing. BUT... the pendants are large and not always pleasing to everyone's eye. Mine are concealed in my large canopy... but, not everyone runs a canopy. Also... I've got "easy" SPS growing just fine... I've never tried the 'tough stuff'. I'd be happy to, if someone busts me off a small frag para gratis to try.

... I'm watching along with the others. I hope you like it!

[DaveMorris]

How long have you had your back issues Dave? And did any one thing cause it? ... Eh, this topic in itself needs it's own thread... er, website!

Ten years ago I did damage to the disc at L4/L5. It was typical lifting and twisting, something that oddly enough, stagehands do a lot of. The doctors surgically removed a bulge in the disc that was pressing on the left cyatic nerve, which was causing horrible pain shooting down my left leg. After surgery all was good. About two months ago I started getting the same symptoms on the right side and down my right leg so I am pretty sure that the disc is toast. Because I now have Kaiser for insurance they are taking the slow road to theoretical recovery. We'll see how it goes.

Now, on to LEDs.....


Coming along nicely Dave!

I have to say, when I've always done the math... a DIY is either too much drilling and soldering for me, or too costly for the amount of light I need.
Which brings me to... didn't you say you want to do SPS? And, your only going with 184W of LED output, to possibly 360ish be end of project...?

I run 480W of LED over my 240 (8x2x2) and it does perfect. From spread, to output... to the amount of shimmer (and not one fan! super quiet!), just amazing. BUT... the pendants are large and not always pleasing to everyone's eye. Mine are concealed in my large canopy... but, not everyone runs a canopy. Also... I've got "easy" SPS growing just fine... I've never tried the 'tough stuff'. I'd be happy to, if someone busts me off a small frag para gratis to try.

... I'm watching along with the others. I hope you like it!

I am going to do this in stages. At this point I have no idea how much I will ultimately be running before I am done. I am doing it in small chunks for several reasons, one of which is that every thread I read about people with LEDs is they are running them at 30% - 60% of their designed capacity. I will run mine at or near 100% and if I feel like I will need more, then I will just build another line of them.

And speaking of "building" them...That is one aspect that I enjoy immensely. Designing and building the system is something I like to do. I consider it part of the hobby. I think it is also part of why I have such an interest in controllers. I like tinkering with electronics and when I can mix that in with a reef tank I get enjoyment from two different hobbies at the same time. If I actually calculated my time into the equation then you are right, it is hardly worth it compared to buying a commercially available fixture and being done with it. Doing this DIY I can tailor the project to meet my specific needs instead of working around what somebody else has determined I need. If I don't like it, I can take it apart and do it over again.

Now if I can just et my PAR meter back from the North County boys that have it I will be ready to take some measurements. Although I think PAR value is a very over-used and misunderstood aspect of reeftank lighting. Quantity of light is far less important than quality of light, even though the two go together.

[JohnnyAirtime]

Ten years ago I did damage to the disc at L4/L5. It was typical lifting and twisting, something that oddly enough, stagehands do a lot of. The doctors surgically removed a bulge in the disc that was pressing on the left cyatic nerve, which was causing horrible pain shooting down my left leg. After surgery all was good. About two months ago I started getting the same symptoms on the right side and down my right leg so I am pretty sure that the disc is toast. Because I now have Kaiser for insurance they are taking the slow road to theoretical recovery. We'll see how it goes.


Now, on to LEDs.....
I am going to do this in stages. At this point I have no idea how much I will ultimately be running before I am done. I am doing it in small chunks for several reasons, one of which is that every thread I read about people with LEDs is they are running them at 30% - 60% of their designed capacity. I will run mine at or near 100% and if I feel like I will need more, then I will just build another line of them.

And speaking of "building" them...That is one aspect that I enjoy immensely. Designing and building the system is something I like to do. I consider it part of the hobby. I think it is also part of why I have such an interest in controllers. I like tinkering with electronics and when I can mix that in with a reef tank I get enjoyment from two different hobbies at the same time. If I actually calculated my time into the equation then you are right, it is hardly worth it compared to buying a commercially available fixture and being done with it. Doing this DIY I can tailor the project to meet my specific needs instead of working around what somebody else has determined I need. If I don't like it, I can take it apart and do it over again.

Now if I can just et my PAR meter back from the North County boys that have it I will be ready to take some measurements. Although I think PAR value is a very over-used and misunderstood aspect of reeftank lighting. Quantity of light is far less important than quality of light, even though the two go together.
Got ya on the back thing. I too have Kaiser, but they've been great at getting me help and working towards a resolution (to fuse my sacroilac joint).

And I understand the build. I respect that your a tinkerer (I've seen your webcam, and the "stuff" you tinker with!) and will enjoy the build. I also agree, it's nice to build your own and do it as YOU see fit. Sometimes that's good, and sometimes not so good... especially, when you THINK you got it right... and don't. A redo is a pita... but should be expected when 'experimenting'. I know I've finally landed where I want to be with LEDs over my Reef, and it took me 4 different types of LED fixtures to work it out, go figure - it only took a year.

Your right about PAR meters. Same with LUX meters... they are a guide, but not a true measurement of LED light (unlike a spectroradiometer). Just something to give us a reference point if you will. Simply because light meters have a color corrected filter. Most cheap meters are relatively accurate (5-10%) from 500 - 650nm, but tend to be quite inaccurate, i.e. 25% off below 450nm, and start to get inaccurate at the upper end 650nm as well but not as bad as the blue. For example, an Apogee Quantum meter is designed to measure photons between 400nm and 700nm. And we know we aren't JUST measuring white... so, take any measurement with a grain of salt considering the spectral error you'll see when measuring your LEDs.

This might help calculate your readings;

LED COLOR and Error [in %]
Blue (448 nm peak, 10 nm FWHM) -8.5
Green (524 nm peak, 15 nm FWHM) 8.0
Red (635 nm peak, 10 nm FWHM) 6.9
Cool White -2.0
Neutral White -3.8
Red, Blue Mixture 4.9
Red, Green, Blue Mixture 5.6

Now... factor in your offset in degrees, and you have another ball of wax!! Let alone, the above doesn't properly take into account IR or UV... and we all love our low end UV spectrums (420nm and less).

[Sandbags]

Great build looking forward to see it over the tank and corals!:) I'm going 30 x3 Crees over my 16 for sps and clams. Good thing it has a dimmer! Hope your back settles down so you can finish your project smoothly. My uncle slipped a disc in his back a while ago, he was a motorcycle repairmen now he can barely do much without his hydrocodone. Can't imagine how much pain your in. Hope all goes smoothly!

[DaveMorris]

Today I finished wiring the second strip of LEDs. I also tested the power supply and all is good once I discovered one little element of control that they seem to have forgotten to put in the specs for the drivers. Even though the drivers are controlled by the digital input from the controller interface, they still require a pot to be wired to the driver board for manual dimming control. To use the controller interface the pot needs to be up full. No reference to that anywhere in the specs for the drivers, but it wasn't too hard to sort out.

I must say, these LEDs are bright as hell. The UV doesn't look as violet as I thought it would but it will be interesting to see what it looks like over the tank. Tomorrow I will replace the one connector that I ruined ( :( ) and then get the voltage dialed in and do some final testing. Tomorrow night I should have them mounted over the tank and working. I decided that I am going to put the 60 degree lenses on them. I should be able to get that done tomorrow as well.

I also broke out the ALC module to do some testing with it today and I must say it is pretty easy and straight forward to set up. The module has two 0v - 10v dimming channels, two serial channels, and two moonlight ports. The serial channels directly control AI fixtures. The ALC lets you set the max level for each channel, the ramp up/down time, and the time of day for on and off. Each channel is controlled individually. I will shoot some pics of the set up as well as some screen shots of the myReef screens for the ALC tomorrow.

[JohnnyAirtime]

......
I must say, these LEDs are bright as hell. The UV doesn't look as violet as I thought it would but it will be interesting to see what it looks like over the tank. .................. The ALC lets you set the max level for each channel, the ramp up/down time, and the time of day for on and off. Each channel is controlled individually. .............

Remember I mentioned this when you were over picking up Chaeto... Some LEDs are sold as 420nm, but end up being more like 435nm. OR, they are true 420nm... and are so dim (even at 100% output), they almost look like they won't put out any light over the tank. That's why I removed about 50 of them from my 4 panels at one time, and replaced them with 440nm. I hope you like them... You "usually" don't notice much difference in color on the tank with them, as they don't "put out" enough lumen over the other LEDs to make a VISIBLE difference.

And you using an ALC is one reason I've almost went out and bought a controller, and then designed my own lights around that option. So I'm excited to see how you like it, and if it is truly a "ramping" control of bringing the LEDs to full intensity. Every one I've seen so far... works, but it does the ramping in so many steps. The lowest step was never low enough for my tastes.

... Very cool Dave. Can't wait to see your end product.

[DaveMorris]

Remember I mentioned this when you were over picking up Chaeto... Some LEDs are sold as 420nm, but end up being more like 435nm. OR, they are true 420nm... and are so dim (even at 100% output), they almost look like they won't put out any light over the tank. That's why I removed about 50 of them from my 4 panels at one time, and replaced them with 440nm. I hope you like them... You "usually" don't notice much difference in color on the tank with them, as they don't "put out" enough lumen over the other LEDs to make a VISIBLE difference.

These LEDs are actually not sold as UV LEDs, but referred to as "True Violet". Here is part of the description from the website:

Wavelength- 420-430, this True Violet LED has an actual peak at 422.5nm,
the closest peak to 420 that we have seen in ANY violet LED! Because this
is actually a True Violet, and not a purple UV LED - it is significantly brighter
than any other violet/purple LED we have seen.



And you using an ALC is one reason I've almost went out and bought a controller, and then designed my own lights around that option. So I'm excited to see how you like it, and if it is truly a "ramping" control of bringing the LEDs to full intensity. Every one I've seen so far... works, but it does the ramping in so many steps. The lowest step was never low enough for my tastes.

... Very cool Dave. Can't wait to see your end product.

I will of course be posting actual test results and progress as I complete this little project, but here is a bit about the ALC controller. It outputs 0v - 10v DC on two separate dimmer channels. This is done in increments of 0 - 100. You can also set the ramp time for up to 99 minutes in 1 minute increments. I am connecting the ALC outputs up to the Stevesleds.com "Aquarium Controller Interface". It converts the 0v - 10v DC outputs to a PWM digital signal and in turn sends that signal to the drivers. I am curious to see how smooth the translation is between the two. I have read good things about how well the ALC works with Meanwell and other drivers using just the DC control voltage. It should work even better with these drivers.

[DaveMorris]

Well I have been a little behind in my updates. Not a lot of progress to report, but I do have the LEDs over the tank and working great. I definately need another row of them for better coverage, but overall I am happy with the look of them in the tank. I get lots of shimmer and I am happy with the color temp. I am going to build a canopy box over the tank to house the LEDs and my two T5 lamps. That is when and if I get some time off work to do the work.

To see what they look like, check out my front view webcam:

http://www.reeftronics.net/dave/reefcam-1

Lights start dimming on at 3:30pm over a one hour period. They start ramping down over a one hour period at 9:00pm.

Hopefully in a couple of weeks or so I will order up another batch of LEDs and drivers and build a second row of LEDs. That should give me plenty of coverage over the tank.

[jschnepf]

LED build looks great! The wiring in the project box is very professional. Following along for sure.

[DaveMorris]

Well work has kept me busy but I have decided that I am going to double the amount of LEDs over the tank. Time to order a second LED kit from Stevesleds.com. I think I will redo the power supply box as well to house all of the components from both kits. Stay tuned