Extending ballast wiring for T5 HO. Problematic?

[JohnnyAirtime]

Okay...

So I decided (due to need) to extend my ballast wiring to my bulbs.
... the previous owner, had a disgusting wiring job in the canopy and left wires exposed or hung the ballasts from those wires on the backside of the tank. Just a poor job, and left items out in the open where they had moisture or salt exposure.

The setup is;
(2) ballasts, with (4) 36" T5 HO bulbs.
....One ballast, runs 2 bulbs.

I extended the ballast wiring (about 5'), from ballast to bulb and am now having a problem with one pair of bulbs and their ballast. Each ballast, is a retrofit Current-USA model 1915 (runs 2 bulbs of 39W each). When the ballast is powered, the bulbs flicker for some time and eventually light. However, thats one pair. My second pair (on ballast number two) flicker... and flicker... and then stop, and never light. If I swap ballasts, I find the problem with the one ballast and not the bulbs or the wiring (supposedly).

So, MY QUESTION is;
Have any of you extended wiring from a T5 HO ballast and ever had problems, or no problems... and if so, what was the detail of your project?!

... my gut is telling me to replace the ballast (since I'm able to have 1 of 2 ballasts turn the lights on during my troubleshooting, without too much trouble). However, I've yet to call CURRENT-USA or ask them this same question. That's next. :)

I'm open to ideas, suggestions, comments...etc.

[vinny73]

Ive extended my ballast wiring as well. Actually 3 ballasts. I extended them to a total of 8 feet. If you look at the wiring harness icecap sells for their ballasts, they're like 10 or 12 feet long. You'll be good. Just make sure to shrink wrap your connections.

[JohnnyAirtime]

Ive extended my ballast wiring as well. Actually 3 ballasts. I extended them to a total of 8 feet. If you look at the wiring harness icecap sells for their ballasts, they're like 10 or 12 feet long. You'll be good. Just make sure to shrink wrap your connections.

Good info.
I've already done the mod, and yes... of course, used black shrink wrap (has glue in it to seal) post solder. I'm just wondering now, if the ballasts are old and need replacement.

[vinny73]

Not too sure how you can test the ballasts or gauge the age of them. But, if they work, just leave em and plan on saving some money to buy replacements in when they go out or replace them to save your sanity

[vinny73]

I went back and reread your entire post, some ballast do flicker or warm up, but your 1st or second one sounds like the starter is bad inside it. I would replace them personally. Contact Benzeeno to see if he has any leftover from a job he did replacing t5 ballasts. I got a couple used ones from him and they have lasted a couple years allready.

[Two Bit Scooter]

I've got a similar t5 setup (2 balast and 4 bulbs) that came from reef geek. They sent wires so long that I only needed one package to install both. I agree with vinny, I don't think an extra few feet of wire will make any difference. Maybe check the power and ground connections?

[JohnnyAirtime]

Thanks Vinny!!
I PM'd Ben and he got back to me quickly. I'm sure I'll be meeting up with him later to pick up some ballasts (get some extras too), and try out one in replacement for the "blinker" unit.

...gotta love the comraderie on SDReefs!!

[Wheeldog]

I highly recommend the Workhorse brand of electronic ballasts for VHO/T5. They are cheap, small, run cool and their website has wiring diagrams for just about any setup you need, just put in the bulb config and it'll give you what you need. http://www.fulham.com/ I've personally used multiple ballasts of theirs for different setups and have yet to run into any problems.

[JohnnyAirtime]

I highly recommend the Workhorse brand of electronic ballasts for VHO/T5. They are cheap, small, run cool and their website has wiring diagrams for just about any setup you need, just put in the bulb config and it'll give you what you need. http://www.fulham.com/ I've personally used multiple ballasts of theirs for different setups and have yet to run into any problems.

Thanks Dog... but, I've got a lead on some used and will be trying them out to see if I can cure the possible bad apple (if that is truly a bad ballast).

[Wheeldog]

Thanks Dog... but, I've got a lead on some used and will be trying them out to see if I can cure the possible bad apple (if that is truly a bad ballast).

Good Luck

[scooterpipe]

Icecap ententions work great ! Expensive but work great. Make sure you use a C shroud around teh wires to protect adn keep them from being exposed. I have mine running to out door area. 2+ years. Also order Braded Twisted wire -not solid copper if avaialble , much more durable. Hope it helps

[JohnnyAirtime]

.............Contact Benzeeno to see if he has any leftover from a job he did replacing t5 ballasts. ..............

BAM... problem solved.

I met'em down South, and picked up a few. Nice guy!! I came home, wired one in... and POOF, Lights!!

... already threw the bad ballast out and will eventually replace the other ballast with one aquired from Benzeeno!

THANK YOU VINNY73 and BENZEENO!!!!

[SoCalBoo]

One small suggestion to follow the thread for those who may read it for content - you should use the same AWG (thickness) wire that is already there if possible...thicker is acceptable, but thinner is not. And as someone already said, use braided wire, not solid copper. Smaller wire cannot handle the same current (I believe it is amp load to be technically correct) and you can fry the wire. Stick a thin extension cord on a high amp appliance (like a portable AC), fire up the appliance, and feel the cord a few minutes later...it will probably be burning hot, and will sizzle any moment. Same principle.

[JohnnyAirtime]

Good suggestion Boo...

I personally used the higher end stranded, in the same gauge. Worked like a charm once I got the replacement ballast (to replace the bad one). If you use the same gauge, it's easier to solder and heat shrink... or at minimum, makes a cleaner connection. And it's best to stagger your connections so you don't have one big clump to put into wire loom, or when zip tying up.