Turf scrubber thread

[suver569]

I'm starting to build a turf scrubber. I'm using a 2.5g paint bucket from home depot, using a pretty genius (IMO) spray bar I designed.

I have some parts built, and I'm documenting with pics and will start uploading them this monday.

I'm curious to know if anyone is currently using a turf scrubber and if so, how's it working?

Pics coming soon!

[pazhope]

I just started running mine yesterday, will let you know my results when I see any progress.

Is a 13' x 19' screen with a 33 W T5, 2700 light, 500 gph flow.

[sgriffin760]

whats a turf scrubber

[Live Water Aquariums]

Algal Turf Scrubber, or ATS. Filters the water with turf algae, rather than the macro algae usually cultured in refugium.
It's very efficient. Apparently the patent on the filter is about to expire so this will become a more mainstream style of filtration as it starts becoming commercially available. You are about to hear a lot about turf scrubbers. There are guys on RC. trying to dose nitrates into their system because the turf scrubbers are so efficient. It'll be fun to watch your build, thanks for sharing.

[lowfi]

there has almost been some sort of "spammer" that has been posting a TON online at various forums about turf scrubbers. especially reps them pretty hard on RC.

[Live Water Aquariums]

there has almost been some sort of "spammer" that has been posting a TON online at various forums about turf scrubbers. especially reps them pretty hard on RC.


I've seen that guy all over, pretty ridiculous, kind of turns people off to the whole idea, with all the outrages claims he makes.

[sgriffin760]

so the guy that started this thread is a comp or just a spammer

[BigAir]

The OP is not the spammer they refer to.

[goody]

I just sold some palys to a member on here and he is running a turf scrubber. He said his nitrates were at 0 and it was going very successfully for him. I can't remember his username, but it is the only reason he said he got back in the hobby.

[pazhope]

Well there are a bunch of different opinions so I decided to try it for my self.
I have a 90G with a hang on the back skimmer and my nitrate levels are around 5 - 10 ppm, before spending more cash on a bigger skimmer I decide to give it a try.

Maybe its just a waste of time or maybe it works, I just have spend like 5 dlls on it.

[suver569]

Lol, I'm not a spammer. I've been on this site for over 5 years.

Anyway, I have it up and running, I'll have pics tomorrow. Just trying to work out one little kink. It's slurping like mad! I'm probably just going to have to pick up a "T" fitting for my return line since the return is gravity fed, and put a breather line in. Should have all the pics tomorrow if I have the slurping problem fixed.

[laffingcrow]

Spammer ... lol (thats why there are "I got kicked off RC" tee shirts lol)
When something works better than mainstream there will always be non believers and haters... The Science is sound, do your research and anyone with access to a dremel tool or grinder and a drill can make one for less than $20. You just have to be a DIYer.
Just like Goody said in in his earlier post, It is the reason I got back into the hobby after a 20 year absence. Lot's of things have changed.
I'll put together a diy post in the future so I can explain more about why and how... but to keep it short here, I stumbled onto it while researching to help a friend. In the mean time I've built a few ATS (I've been culturing algae with no tank since may) and had my own plans of building and selling them but needed a test tank. Even had lunch with the director of Marine Biodiversity at Scripps who used to have an algae lab himself to talk about the specifics of light reguirements, species, color etc.
Now for the nut...
I aquired a 20 gal. tank mid November w/ hammer, frogspawn, clown, urchin, shrimp and shrooms. Nitrates were about 20 ppm. Now 0.
He was using Scripps water (how can I not use it; it's just down the street for me) NO SKIMMER and just a small penguin hang on the back filter.
The tank looked good; no nuisance algae, lots of coralline.
I did a few water changes over the next two weeks and then put on my best newest design of ATS below the tank in the cabinet out of sight in my 5 gal. bucket/sump. That was the end of Novemer and was my LAST WATER CHANGE:crazy: never measured any phosphates. (had the ATS on for two weeks before getting my test kit)
It takes about 4 to 6 weeks to get what I call the "MAGIC CARPET" TM(you heard it here first) of algae growing on your "harvesting" screen.
It goes through changes but the end result is a carpet like growth of micro alga (proper plural... I was corrected) of which will be determined by what is already in your system.
The ATS simply provides a place for your algae to grow better because the light and water flow and therefore NUTRIENTS not nutrition are better there.
In other words you grow your algae in you cabinet out of sight and out of mind rather than your display tank AND you harvest and throw away (do not feed back) instead of changing water to get rid of nitrates and phosphates, ammonia, CO2, heavy metals...
That's right... I scrape algae once a week (5 min.) instead of changing water. (and I could walk to get scripps water if I had to)
I feed a ton... don't have any fish right now (one of those "spammer" (lol)guys made his own constant feeder and feeds a chilled frozen mix of food constantly. The ATS handles the load... the talk is now how much more load we will be putting on once your scrubber is up and running.
I only have a bag of carbon other than the ATS, NO skimmer, no sock, no phosphate reactor, no DSB, or denitrifier, screen, fuge or anything to hold back the nutrition flowing through the system.
When I feed... all the food stays in the tank for everything all the way down the food chain. I've even seen a flake of food come back out of the return intact. (only 2 sq. inches/ gal. of scrapable screen is necessary depending on load)

Oh yea, algae removes CO2 and in so doing keeps your ph up over night by having the ATS light on a reverse cycle to your display tank.
Great oxygen exchange because there is a constant flow of water over the screen and if you have a way of draining the water from the ATS back into the tank rather than pumping it then it becomes a super copepod generator, great for your tank. (I converted that penguin hob into a copepod feeder with a small screen that gets light from above)

I could go on but there is less hate and sceptisizm when you believe it for yourself... there is one central Hater at RC who has turned this really helpful info into a the spammer earlier reffered to...do your own research; here is where I started...

This is (I think) the spammer guy earlier reffered to and really the one person who inspired me the most: Santamonica is his screen name and he has been one of the most generous reefers to date on any forum; he has tirelessly posted info and DIY plans and pics from all over the world in an honest effort to advance our hobby and he has no interest in any economic gain what so ever. IMO a real stan up guy; in the mean time the RC loudmouth says nothing but falsehoods and shows he doesn't know it all. He says you can't keep SPS without carbon (vodka, vinegar) dosing. lol
You can if you feed them enough. The ATS allows all of the food to be consumed instead of being skimmed out.(Too bad you saw anything on RC... IMO)
Check this out first:
AlgaeScrubber.net (the faq 3.5 and 48 hours of additional research was all I needed to convert)
Also:
Eric Borneman was early in the game and stumbled onto it himself many years ago; he is a scientist and has a new book "Aquarium Corals selection,husbandry, and naural history" He only mentions the ATS briefly here.
Also:
Dr Addy at the Smithsonian Institution is the original patent holder for one specific alternate design of ATS as well as other patents on other amazing uses of algae from coastal clean up to bio fuels.

My tank:http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/thum_61974b7a0b67e0d45.jpg ('http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1583')
Thanks for your interest
Brian

[Live Water Aquariums]

If I sounded like a hater I apologize. The guy who "spammed" every reefing site with his turf info really came off as a nut. I understand he maybe just really believes in what he's doing, but he made incredible claims without substantial data to back them up. I strongly believe in the value of algae as filtration and am open to learn more and use these ideas myself.

When people get on and say never change water again, or dose anything, red flags go up everywhere. We have seen this too many times over the years and I believe it does a dis-service to the technology to overstate it's value.

I'm glad it works for you and I'm sure it can work for anyone, I just hope that the benefits of one filtration tactic can be discussed without bashing all other techniques.

Please share more, I really feel this is a positive advance that will become more common as it becomes more commercially viable due to patent expiration.

Again I personally am not a hater, quite the opposite, I think this filter has great potential. It's just hard when people say throw everything else away.

Now I'm going to have to go build one and try it out to prove I'm not a hater.

[ReefMaster]

Basically a Wet-Dry Filter above water with a light...
High surface area for bacterial film, nitrates, phosphates, algae grows, throw out the algae.
I'm sure it works and is efficient. But a wet-dry filter would be way more efficient than a flat plate.
It's just hard to clean the bioballs.

The irony of how history repeats itself. Not really a new idea, just someone accidentally discovered it and called it their own.

Please show us your setup, we would like to see how you did it.

[stephj03]

I have a few questions about this approach. Not a skeptic, genuinely curious.

What is the timescale that the algae grows back in after harvesting under normal tank stocking conditions when using this as the only filration?

What picks up the slack between the time your harvest and the time the algae grows back? Or do you only harvest a little at a time?

When you harvest, how do you leave seed algae on the device for the next harvest without leaving loose pieces on it that can wash into and grow in the main display?

[pazhope]

The idea is to build a scrubber with a harvest area of 1 sq inch per gallon of water and you put powerful light on both sides.
Ones a week you harvest only 1 side (half of the screen), and leave the other side to work. When you harvest the screen you just remove the algae with your hand (hair algae) but you don't wash the screen, you left some algae left so it can regrow. After a week you trim the other side, and so on with the cycle.

My scrubber has been running for 5 days, I went for a only 1 side light approach so I use a screen of twice the side and a bigger light, so in my case I will harvest only half of the screen when the time comes.

My tank if a 90 gallon, the scrubber is around 208 sq inches (13' X 18') and I am using a 32 Watt T5 2700 light, for what I have read this is a small lamp, they recommend 23W power compact per side, but my space is limited.

My nitrates has been 5 - 10 ppm for the last couple of weeks, yesterday they were 0. Since the scrubber has been running for only 5 days I wasn't expecting results this soon, so I will let it run for more days before making any assumptions.

Pictures:

This pic is from Feb 7, you can see there is some cyano on the sand and the flat rock in the middle is cover in hair algae.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S3gDPUd2yrI/AAAAAAAAFG4/kmx7Wm_-8NM/s720/IMG00087-20100207-1430.jpg

This is a pic form yesterday Feb 13, the flat rock in the middle has less algae, and the sand looks more clean.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S3gDSlDa1BI/AAAAAAAAFG8/GPwlP0KVmnQ/s640/IMG00102-20100213-1920.jpg

I know my bicolor blenny eats the hair algae form the rock, but before I never notice any advance, I guess the algae regrow on the scrubber this time.

On a side note, I add some livestock this week (2 perculas, 1 anemone, 1 frogspam and 1 mandarin dragonet)

I will post some pics of the scrubber latter, and I will use a better camera, this is the one of my cellphone.

[pazhope]

I forgot to add, the aquarium has been running or a short time, 3 to 4 months. and the progress is slow.

I am not the spammer!!!!!!.

[Bio-Nut]

I told you laffingcrow that I would love to test your product just let me know!

[laffingcrow]

You'll be the first to know... right now I'm redesigning to get better flow and quieter. Lots of flow is really important and it can be noisy even in the sump.
See the picture of one weeks 50% harvest from my 23 gal. system.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/thum_61974b7a060d4a7ed.jpg ('http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1582')

[pazhope]

Well, it has been around 19 days since I start using the ATS, my nitrates are still at 0 and I turn off the skimmer over a week ago.

As I promise here are some pics of the scrubber and the algae of this week harvest.

Tank with scrubber down on the right:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S4rrVI0-s2I/AAAAAAAAFNM/ku4adOsqG78/CIMG7889.JPG

Tank shot #2:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S4rrvjTjEUI/AAAAAAAAFNU/rNfk1Gy3qN4/CIMG7890.JPG

ATS:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S4rr-Ce6xcI/AAAAAAAAFNc/I4nP8UNbhTc/CIMG7891.JPG

Harvest (50% of the screen)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S4rs_jCZ89I/AAAAAAAAFOM/LrC576CTkfg/CIMG7895.JPG


Sorry for the pics, I still need to learn how to take better pics of my aquarium.

[pazhope]

Forgot to mention, I will rebuild the ATS lamp in order to make it water proof, I think inside an acrylic housing

[laffingcrow]

Good job Pazhope! you have great growth! ...which means your flow is good and the green color tells me your T5 light has enough intensity however you may find you need more coverage so that the whole screen gets the intensity it needs not just the part closest to the bulb.
Also keep in mind that any macro algae or large clumps of hair algae will shade the more efficient micro algae closer to the screen and keep it from growing.
You have massive growth while your excess nutrients are being totally removed.
Your pictures are a testiment to how any algae overgrowth problems can be handled with a Turf Scrubber. (anyone out there with algae problems?)
The Scrubber just gives the Algae a better place to grow so it can be removed.

[vinny73]

I made one that basically takes all my overflow water and runs it over a screen above my sump and then into a refugium full of chaeto. I have never had a tank that has done so well before I tried this method. Definately easy to tell by the growth and coloratation and stability of my tank. You will be very happy with this filter.

[lowfi]

do you have any before and after pics? how long have you been running it?

[ReefMaster]

I started mine 2 weeks ago and brown algae is starting to ensue.

[fish king]

Part 1 of 2

Super Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

Are you tired of green on your rocks? Do you have to clean your glass more than once a week? Well then I'm sure you've been told (or you've figured out) that your Nitrate and/or Phosphate are too high. Sure enough, if these are too high, the green starts growing. Phosphate is the important one: If you can detect any phosphate at all with a hobby test kit (like Salifert), then it's high enough to cause algae to grow. So, what can you do?

Build an algae filter screen, that's what you can do. An algae filter screen, also known as a turf algae filter, a turf scrubber, or an algae scrubber, basically filters the water clean of nitrate and phosphate so that the green on your rocks and glass goes away. It does this by "moving" the growth of the algae from the tank to a "screen" outside of the tank. The idea is that you create a better growing environment on the screen than occurs in the tank, so that the algae grows on the screen instead. It works great!

Here's what you can expect: If you build your algae filter properly, your nitrate and phosphate will be incredibly low, sometimes unmeasureable by hobby test kits, within four weeks. I use Salifert test kits, and the readings I get are "clear" (zero) for both the Nitrate and the Phosphate tests. This is what you want. If you have been trying to get this yourself, then an algae filter is for you.

Here is my Algae Filter in a 5-gallon bucket; it's the only filter I have (other than the live rock) on my 100 gallon reef:

31102




Here is the filter in operation with the lights on:
31103







Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/WholeTank.jpg
Video: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/WholeTank08-11-08.mpg


And here are the only things you need to build a bucket version of this filter:




My nitrate and phosphate are zero (clear on Salifert test kits), and the only thing in my sump is water. I removed the skimmer, carbon, phosban, polyfilter(s), and filtersock; I don't use ozone, vodka, zeo or anything else. I'm feeding massive amounts too; enough that if I had my previous filtering setup, I'd have to clean the glass twice a day, and everything in the tank would be covered in green or brown algae. Amazing.

The only thing you need to decide on is how big your algae filter screen needs to be, and if you want it to be in your tank's hood, or in a bucket, or in your sump. The basic rule is one square inch of screen for each gallon of tank water, if the screen it lit on both sides; the screen size should be twice this if the screen is lit up on just one side. A 12 X 12 inch screen, lit both sides, = 144 square inches = 144 gal tank; a 7 X 7 inch screen lit both sides = 49 gal tank; a 6 X 6 lit both sides = 36 gal tank. Algae filters get really small as you can see. A 12 gal nano tank needs just 3 X 4 inches! This small thing can replace the skimmer, refugium, phosphate removers, nitrate removers, carbon, filtersocks, and waterchanges, IF THE PURPOSE of these devices is to reduce nitrate and phosphate. If these devices have any other purpose, then they can't be replaced. If your tank is bigger than a 75, then just start with a 5 gallon bucket size and see how it goes. You can always add a second one, or build a bigger one later.

My example bucket version takes about 4 hours to build. Water goes in the pvc pipe at the top, flows down over the screen, then drains out the bottom. That's it! Oh, and it has clip-on lights. I can feed the tank a lot of food, and anything not eaten by the corals or fish eventually ends up as algae on the screen.


Here are some examples of DIY algae filter screens already built, from a simple nano one:

31104


Here are some advantages of an algae filter:


o Allows you to feed very high amounts without causing nuisance algae growth in the tank.

o Can replace waterchanges, IF THE PURPOSE of the waterchange is to reduce nitrate or
phosphate or algae growth. Otherwise, it does not replace the water change.

o Grows swarms of copepods.

o Increases pH.

o Increases oxygen.

o Will NOT spread algae into the tank. It removes algae FROM the tank.

o There is no odor from the algae (only a slight ocean smell when cleaning it).

o Is very quiet when flowing, similar to a tabletop decorative waterfall.

o Introduces no microbubbles when adjusted.

o Removes ammonia too.

o You can even make a portable bucket! Just unplug the lights, lift up the pump
out of the tank water, and go put it in your next tank (or your friend's tank).
Don't let the screen dry out though.

o Works in saltwater or freshwater.

[laffingcrow]

I started mine 2 weeks ago and brown algae is starting to ensue.

Scrape the brown slimy stuff off right away so as not to shade the better more efficient micro algae from taking root on the screen.
Maybe scrape every three or four days instead of weekly until you get the nutrients down.
The brown slimy stuff is the sign of high nutrients (nitrate and phosphate) and will go away to become thick green turf and much more difficult to scrape.
Also for those who are still thinking of building one... flow, flow, flow is really important. Stick to the recommended 35 gallons per hour /lineal inch of screen.
eg. 10" x 10" screen will require 350 gallons per hour to filter 100 gallons.
anything less is well ... less and will not work as described, just take longer.
Just think... for every handful of algae you scrape... is a handful that can't grow in your tank.

[fish king]

Part 2 of 2:

How to build it:

First, get your screen. Any stiff material that has holes in it, like knitting backing, plastic canvas, rug canvas, gutter guard, or tank-divider will do. Try going to hardware stores, craft stores, garden stores, sewing stores, or just get one of these online:

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.j...RODID=prd12195
http://www.herrschners.com/products/...spx?sku=137850
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor...37;20divider/0

Don't use window screen though. The main problem with this kind of "soft" screen will be getting it to hold its shape; it will bend and fold too much. Stiff screen is easier to make stay put, and easier to clean.

If you have a nano with a filter hatch on top of the hood, then it's super easy: Just cut a piece of screen to replace the sponge filter, and put it where the sponge filter went. Leave the hatch open, an set a strong light on it, facing down directly on the screen. This is a good bulb to get; it will be bright enough to power the screen, and to light up your nano too:

http://www.buylighting.com/23-Watt-R...1r4023-51k.htm

If your nano does not have a filter hatch on top of the hood, or if you have a regular tank, then here are the larger versions:








The first and main thing to consider is the flow to the screen. You need about 35 gph (gallons per hour) for every inch of width of the screen. Thus, a 2" wide screen would need 70 gph, and so on. Here is a chart:

Screen Width-----Gallons Per Hour (GPH)

1" 35
2" 70
3" 105
4" 140
5" 175
6" 210
7" 245
8" 280
9" 315
10" 350
11" 385
12" 420
13" 455
14" 490
15" 525
16" 560
17" 595
18" 630
19" 665
20" 700


Note that it does not matter how tall your screen is, just how wide it is. Let's start with an overflow feed: In this case the amount of flow is pre-determined by how much is overflowing; the maximum flow you'll get to the screen will be what's going through your overflow now. This is easy to figure out by counting how many seconds it takes your overflow to fill a one-gallon jug:

60 seconds = 60 gph
30 seconds = 120 gph
15 seconds = 240 gph
10 seconds = 360 gph
8 seconds = 450 gph
5 seconds = 720 gph


Take this gph number that you end up with, and divide by 35, to get the number of inches wide the screen should be. For example, if your overflow was 240 gph, then divide this by 35 to get 6.8 (or just say 7) inches. So your screen should be 7 inches wide. How tall should it be? As tall as can fit into the area you have, and, as tall as your light bulbs will cover. But how tall it is not as important as how wide it is.

Pump feeds: Since with a pump you have control over the flow, start with the size screen you can fit into your space. If the screen will go into your sump, then measure how wide that screen will be. If the screen will go into a bucket, then measure how wide that screen will be. Take the width you get, and multiply by 35 to get the gph you need. For example if you can fit a 10 inch wide screen into your sump or bucket, then multiply 10 by 35 to get 350 gph. Thus your pumps needs to deliver 350 gph to the screen.

You can construct your setup using any method you like. The only difficult part is the "waterfall pipe", which must have a slot cut lengthwise into it where the screen goes into it. Don't cut the slot too wide; just start with 1/8", and you can increase it later if you need to, based on the flow you get. I used a Dremel moto-tool with a "cut off wheel":




Now install the pipe onto the screen/bucket by tilting the pipe and starting at one side, then lowering the pipe over the rest. You may have to wiggle the screen in some places to get it to fit in:




Lighting: This is the most important aspect of the whole thing. You must, must, have strong lighting. I'll list again the bulb I listed above:

http://www.buylighting.com/23-Watt-R...1r4023-51k.htm

... This the minimum you should have on BOTH sides of your screen. You can get even higher power CFL bulbs, or use multiple bulbs per side, for screens larger than 12 X 12 inches, or for tanks with higher waste loads. The higher the power of the lighting on the screen, the more nitrate and phosphate will be pulled out of the tank, and faster too.

Operation:

Regardless of which version you build, the startup process is the same. First, clean the screen with running tap water (no soap) while scrubbing it with something abrasive. Then dry it off and sand it with sandpaper on both sides. Then get some algae (any type) from your system and rub it HARD into the screen on both sides, as deep and as hard as you can. Then run tap water over the screen to remove the loose algae pieces; you won't see the spores that stick... they are too small, but they are there. Don't forget this algae rubbing part... it will speed up the start of your screen by a few days. Install the screen and turn on the water.

You can leave the light on for 24 hours for the first week if you want to speed up the process; otherwise just put it on a timer for 18 hours ON, and 6 hours OFF. You will see absolutely nothing grow for the first two days. On day 3 you'll start seeing some growth, and by day 5 most of the screen should have a light brown coating. If this level of growth does not happen on your screen, your lighting is probably not strong enough, or it's not close enough to the screen. Increase the bulb power, or move it closer.

When the screen looks something like this:




...then you want to give it it's first cleaning, on ONE SIDE only. Take the screen to the sink, run tap water on it, and just push the algae off with your fingers (not fingernails):



Wait a week, and clean the other side, gently. Wait another week and clean the first side again, etc. After a while you'll have to press harder to get the tougher algae off, and after a few months you'll probably need to scrape it with something, and it may eventually get so strong that you'll need a razor blade to scrape it off. But for now, be gentle; you always want some algae to remain on the screen when you are done. NEVER clean it off completely.

Don't forget to test your Nitrate and Phosphate before you start your filter, and each day after. I use Salifert:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquari..._salifert.html

Post your pics of how you build it, the growth day by day, and your nitrate and phosphate readings, so we can all see how you are doing!

[Diver Dan]

Interested... Are there any super nice tanks with build threads that use this? I mean if this is supposed to rival zeovit and other ULN systems the tanks should look like and/or better than them. I have seen a ton of buckets with algae in them and no real results. Show me some amazing SPS tanks with this stuff

[pazhope]

This was a tank of the month in south africa.

http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/featuredsystems/Aug2009/

Or you will have to wait a couple of months to see mine. :)

[ReefMaster]

[QUOTE=laffingcrow;538121]Scrape the brown slimy stuff off right away so as not to shade the better more efficient micro algae from taking root on the screen.
QUOTE]

Scraping now... cleaned. Can I seed the screen with hair algae or just wait?

[laffingcrow]

[QUOTE=laffingcrow;538121]Scrape the brown slimy stuff off right away so as not to shade the better more efficient micro algae from taking root on the screen.
QUOTE]

Scraping now... cleaned. Can I seed the screen with hair algae or just wait?

Go ahead with seeding the screen... however IF your screen is rough enough, just be patient, the bits of algae will catch, otherwise it will take longer.
The best way I found of roughing up the screen, is with a the outer ring of a hole saw scraped back and forth across the screen. I even tried scraping it with the rough wheel on my demel and the hole saw still worked the best.
With my hole saw the center bit comes out to change sizes, just use it without the center bit and spend some time and scrape like mad!
There will even be bits of plastic that come off, thats ok... it really needs to be rough and it will take some time.

Also... my tank may not be amazing but I've got SPS (Monti's, Acropora, scroll, hydnophora, birdsnest) and they seem to be loving it and growing... and why not???
You'll be feeding more very soon and everything in your tank will benefit from it.
Your diversity will increase especially if you have a way of getting the water from the scrubber back into the tank without going through a pump.
That little Penguin HOB filter that came with my tank is now a "Copepod generator". (don't google it I just made that name up)
...anyway it has a small screen lit from my lights above that grows algae just to feed the copepods, amphipods and what ever can make it up there and I occasionally scrape it for additional nutrient export.
You can still vodka dose if you want but I don't think it will be necessary since additional bacteria will be present from more feeding... and isn't that what vodka dosing is all about? more bacteria?

Please check out the Algaescrubber.net for tons of pictures of successfully scrubbed tanks with SPS or anything else even freshwater tanks.

Go ahead get out your tools and do it... it works great and can't hurt your tank, all an algae turf scrubber does is create a better growing environment (light and good access to nutrients) for the algae in your tank and more importantly give you a way to get rid of it. The hardest part is DIY. getting the flow right and keeping it quiet.
Heck I may do a water change one of these days!?:crazy: (I dose w/ two part alk/calc., Mag., Strotium/Molybdenum, Iodide, essential elements, vitamarinC)

I don't mean to boast but I did a lot of research first and have planned my entire project around an ATS and only an ATS and the most energy efficient light source LED's; I fought the green montser twenty years ago and got out of the hobby and it was finding the algae turf scrubber that got me back into the hobby.:ohsnap:
I first learned about it in Feb. and have been culturing algae since March in different devices even using red/blue LEDs without a tank and filtering my 20 since the end of Nov.
It's truely nature at it's best.
I used to think the protien skimmer was one of the best devices to come along however I now believe it is the wrong tool for the tool box.:shocked:
Just think... if you take your protien skimmer off line all that expensive food you feed will stay in your water column and what ever your detritovores dont't handle the ATS will.
Thanks again and spread the work like it was spam!?:shocked:
Brian

[goody]

This may be a dumb question, but is it possible to have this happen "naturally" in your overflow? I have a lot of algae in my overflow that looks very similar to your harvest photos. I rarely run my skimmer and clear the algae away every so often.

[laffingcrow]

This may be a dumb question, but is it possible to have this happen "naturally" in your overflow? I have a lot of algae in my overflow that looks very similar to your harvest photos. I rarely run my skimmer and clear the algae away every so often.

You bet... any algae removed = nutrient removal... you may even be able to put a screen in the overflow to harvest even more... HOWEVER be careful about how much algae grows so as not to clog the return.
I just about clogged one of mine by not watching the drain... I had a screen very close to the drain and could not figure out why it was draining so slowly:ohsnap:
For my friend I made a screen that made use of the available light in the overflow but was only about 4" x 6" (24 sq. inces, lit one side =filtering capacity of 12 gallons)
My connection at Scripps "Algae Man" says "algae is good!"
I say make it work for you
Brian

[gthaines]

anyone seen one of these modded into a HOB refugium? Seems like a natural place for those without sumps.

[pazhope]

Nop, I have seen them on nanocubes and aquapods, but I guess you can mod a HOB and put a small one.

[ChouDawg]

Where did you see it in an Aquapod? I'd be interested in doing this if I can figure out a good way to put it where its not too much trouble..

[pazhope]

You can see a lot of ideas here:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8

None of those are aquapod, but I find this one at RC:

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/keifer1122/aquapod1.jpg
The picture is tiny, I think they just add the screen to one of the walls of the back chambers and scrape the back to put a light bulb outside.

If interested let me know so I can send you the link to the post and you can contact him.




Where did you see it in an Aquapod? I'd be interested in doing this if I can figure out a good way to put it where its not too much trouble..

[ChouDawg]

Wow read through all four pages, that is amazing. I might try it out on my pond first, my AquaPod is already jam packed with heater, return pumps, skimmers that I dont think I'd have any room for a turf scrubber, especially not with the useless stock triangular stand...It looks like an amazing new idea though

[pazhope]

I have been lazie on posting here, sorry about that.

My ATS has been running for 1 month and 20 days, and my tank is looking way better, I have seen some really nice improvements I didn't use to see before, off course is a "new tank" since it has been running for around 5 - 6 months and I am new at SW, so I get amaze quite easily :)

Improvements I have notice lately.:
* Lots of pods and amphipods!, I can see the little bugger all over my sump where the ATS is, and also on the tank walls.
* More coralline on rocks and tank walls, is a pita to clean it, but I am super happy.
* grow on my corals!! I guess this is natural, but the zoas are growing at a faster rate and the birdnest have grown a bunch of white tips :)

Will post a full tank shot latter at night, but in the mean time, my last harvest.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S6j4oMVWT2I/AAAAAAAAFQQ/JVtelP4MCYU/IMG00189-20100321-0750.jpg

[pazhope]

Ah forgot to mention, Nitrates are still at zero, almost no algae on the main tank and the skimmer was remove around a month ago :)

[dogma40]

cool info keep it up

[pazhope]

Well, I forgot to take the picture to compare and the tank lights when out, so in the meantime, this is a picture of the tank.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S6mrAQ2qzLI/AAAAAAAAFQw/xyekDCDs244/CIMG7941.JPG

Most of the corals where already closed since I just turn on the light for this. Tomorrow I will get a frontal picture to compare side to side with the original one.

If you look the center flat rock in the middle, the algae is almost completely gone!!!

[pazhope]

Update pictures..

Feb 7
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S3gDPUd2yrI/AAAAAAAAFG4/kmx7Wm_-8NM/s720/IMG00087-20100207-1430.jpg

Today
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S6rLoG3mVnI/AAAAAAAAFRc/gPF_qzM-Ba0/s640/CIMG7944.JPG

[ChouDawg]

Wow all the algae like vanished. I wish I had room for this in my nano.

[mextli]

I'm going to make a mini enclosed scrubber like Santamonica's version. Already bought the acrylic, but i'm still looking for a pair of Coralife mini Aqualights to use. Video of Scrubber (http://www.youtube.com/user/SantaMonicaMale#p/u/9/C8hWqYq5Z6s)

[ChouDawg]

dang $700 for his scrubber thats more then all my tank expenditures to date. I think scrubbers are definitely more practical for large tanks or tanks with a sump area.

[Two Bit Scooter]

Hey, did anybody see a bandwagon go by?

http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/30354bad96e0a85a9.jpg
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/30354bad96e0b7870.jpg

[pazhope]

It looks pretty nice, I tried a design like that but my space is limited. What size of light you put on it? how big is the tank?

[aanntthhoonnyy]

Its the new HIATT method!!!!!!

[Diver Dan]

It is the new fuge
Im pretty sure you can get the same result with 3 handfulls of calurpa and some chaeto in a fuge. Or, you can take care of your tank and do a couple of water changes... But it's up to you:)

[Two Bit Scooter]

... Or, you can take care of your tank and do a couple of water changes... But it's up to you:)

Thbbft! -Bill the cat

[Two Bit Scooter]

It looks pretty nice, I tried a design like that but my space is limited. What size of light you put on it? how big is the tank?

It's a ~50g thats been set up for about two years. http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64587

The 'fuge is a 20g with a raised section for the bac-pak intake, a rubble and chaeto section and the return. I've got some kind of fry (maybe yellow goby or mandarin, both are possible) in the rock so I've been overfeeding and adding phyto to boost pods hoping a few will survive. The drop from the skimmer part of the sump has become a sort of de facto turf scrubber. I just made it official by adding the mesh. The light is a standard HomeDepot 23w cf flood.

[goody]

You bet... any algae removed = nutrient removal... you may even be able to put a screen in the overflow to harvest even more... HOWEVER be careful about how much algae grows so as not to clog the return.
I just about clogged one of mine by not watching the drain... I had a screen very close to the drain and could not figure out why it was draining so slowly:ohsnap:Brian

Wow, were you right! I finally got around to scraping the algae away from my overflow and I didn't realize it was draining so slowly until I removed the algae.
Here are some photos of what was growing in my overflow. I'm thinking of putting a screen in my refugium section and see how it grows there. I already have the light and flow there, so I'll see how it goes.
Here is what my overflow looked liked
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/good365/algae002.jpg
Here is the algae I scraped off
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/good365/algae003.jpg

[jcal]

I have one t-5 bulb right on top of the output of the remora pro HOB and a filter sock in the pre-skimmer box...That is the same crap of algae growing. I have to weekly pull that crap out. I guess I have some sort of turf scrubber.

[drainbamage]

I have one t-5 bulb right on top of the output of the remora pro HOB and a filter sock in the pre-skimmer box...That is the same crap of algae growing. I have to weekly pull that crap out. I guess I have some sort of turf scrubber.
Awesome advanced TAS jcal! :D

turf scrubbers are one of the simplest concepts...just create some surface area and get algae to grow on it. How some have overcomplicated it with all sorts of rules and exacts boggles my mind (I know I know, not hard to do, but still). Next sumped tank I'm going to have is essentially going to have an area with some fiberglass window screen as a rundown "slide" going into a chaeto/caulerpa bin (will do the perma-light thing like I've always done for Caleurpa). Don't see a need for anything fancier than that, and yet to see any real proof that something that costs more than $50 is worth it. Most "turf-algae scrubbers" aren't growing the true turf-algae anyways as they're not using a surge method. It's just hair algae that you're able to pull out of system simply and easily. Fast enough caulerpa growth, or chaeto that's cultivated rapidly will do the same, just minus the 500 page long rants about how amazing it is.

Sorry, just my :2cents:

[vinny73]

Here is one I just did last night on my 60g cube tank. Have had one running on my 40g for about 2 years and I must say, it works really well. Algae's gonna grow somewhere, might as well let it grow in your sump and also let it feed your corals. http://www.seareef.com/SD/showthread.php?2121-May-Meeting

[ensiferum321]

Here is one I just did last night on my 60g cube tank. Have had one running on my 40g for about 2 years and I must say, it works really well. Algae's gonna grow somewhere, might as well let it grow in your sump and also let it feed your corals. http://www.seareef.com/SD/showthread.php?2121-May-Meeting

Looks really Good! Keep us posted with results!

[vinny73]

I will just start posting a weekly picture of the skimmer and it's growth. The tank inhabitants are kinda useless to post pics of cause they grow so slow, and.... only the owner knows, if they're really happier or not. thank you, Vinny

[laffingcrow]

It is the new fuge
Im pretty sure you can get the same result with 3 handfulls of calurpa and some chaeto in a fuge. Or, you can take care of your tank and do a couple of water changes... But it's up to you:)

Sorry it's taken me so long to respond to this... a little encouragement from Coraldiver and the meeting at vinny's helped a lot.
Just goes to show how hard change can be... at one time bio balls and protein skimmers were new.
The new refugium yes, only way more efficient. (the science is solid)
No Macro "Chaeto/Calurpa" can out compete a true Turf of Micro Algae that takes a little time to develop... and way less space.
Concept "SIMPLE" ??? you bet... Too many rules ??? may not be the hobby to be in if your set up doesn't work.
If you still have a Hair Algae problem... perhaps you should look into an ATS.
A properly built ATS... meaning the right flow... light... screen... will take care of even the worst Hair Algae in a few weeks once the phosphate finally leaches out of the rocks.
No more rants...Only honest to goodness excitement vs. bad info not spam... only good info for anyone willing to read and listen.
It's not hard to tell who is not taking care of their tanks.

Glad to see your set up Vinny73 and harvesting that return (18 gallons worth) for almost free... wow. as for bulb... use (Soft White).

I welcome anyone who doubts how well it works to come check out my set up any time. Just PM me with a time and come on over.
Brian

[laffingcrow]

Here is one of the bulbs I use... 26 watts... a little brighter than the fully enclosed 23 watt bulbs recommended on the ATS site.
It does not have to be this brand but notice it says right on the box what color temp. it is... 2700k or soft white.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/61974bf22a06090aa.jpg

...also be sure to follow the rules...jk... very important. Change it out after four to five months just like your overhead t5s for exactly the same reason.

[vinny73]

I was reading on the turf scrubber FAQ page and it said that 3000k was best for algae growth. 300k isn't much difference but that's what it said. I went with the 2700 cool white cfl by your recomendation. Right next to the bulbs I bought were LED bulbs producing 3000k. Don't know how much they were but would have gotten that one for 5 watts less power than what I bought

[laffingcrow]

I was reading on the turf scrubber FAQ page and it said that 3000k was best for algae growth. 300k isn't much difference but that's what it said. I went with the 2700 cool white cfl by your recomendation. Right next to the bulbs I bought were LED bulbs producing 3000k. Don't know how much they were but would have gotten that one for 5 watts less power than what I bought

You are correct... anything close will work fine; 2700k-3000k which is "soft white" not cool white. Cool white is more like 4100k and WILL work but as the ATS site suggests the soft white is for the more efficient red algae.
By using the warmer light, you will be culturing more of the red algae which takes up more Nitrate and Phosphate than some of the green algae.
Now a cautionary statement about LEDs... they are a completely different animal all together with regard to lumens output and my research and testing using a light meter shows that they do not put out the same amount of intensity as compared to the compact florescent bulbs. You can also cover more area with the CFL than the LEDs. (I expect better ones will be available in the future)
I have one LED flood light that is "supposed" (advertised) to be as bright as a MR16 50 watt task lamp however I did not even have to get my light meter out to see that is was not. It would work great for reading but not producing robust algae growth; not to mention it cost ~$25. When I bought the LED I only intended to use it for a nano sized screen in a tight location and in fact I use it now but only to light a screen that is roughly 7"-8" sq. in size.
Two more things that are important... just use one of those clip on type reflectors to keep the light going in the right direction as close to the screen as you feel comfortable and change the bulb out after 4-6 months of use.
You can still use the bulb somewhere else until it dies however even though you will never see the difference with your eyes it will lose productive power that the algae will notice and just not be able to produce the growth you need for nutrient uptake. Consistant light intensity is really important and is part of a "properly" functioning ATS. Just like your overhead T5s.
With your original set up where the light was maybe 10"-12" away from your screen... just getting the light where it is 2"-3" away will increase your screens capacity to grow and therefore uptake nutrients probably five times and if you get another light on the other side... ten times.
Since your screen is so far away from your new overflow screen you should maybe put another light on it too; I'm sure you will notice the difference.
Also I forgot to mention... I think you said you never scraped the main screen before and it is difficult to get out; do not scrape it while in the system as this could cause the yellowing of the water that earlier trials found years ago.
I noticed that your original screen was brown and did not have much of a turf because the brown ugly stuff shades the micro algae and just does not allow it to progress; that is why the ATS site says to scrape it every week regardless and more often in the first few weeks if brown or black until you get a nice red/green turf established.
Sorry for the long answer but all is important for a "properly functioning" ATS; not rocket science but important. I say this because I see a lot of people getting distracted and using whatever materials they have lying around thinking anything will work.
Let us know what your growth is like over the next few weeks and then we can go over some of the other RULES about no skimmer, filter sock, foam blocks or Chaeto which will trap detritus and reduce performance. (too much for some to read and retain here) again that distraction thing... jk.
Thanks for asking great questions... let me know if you need anything... always here to help.
Brian

[Two Bit Scooter]

Another thought, it would probably be better to use a 23w with an internal reflector than a 26w without. Of course a 26w with a reflector would be even better.

[laffingcrow]

Be sure to check Lumens output usually printed on the box... I have found some 26 watt bulbs depending on mfr. that only put out the same intensity as 23 watt bulbs. Shop around for best price.
One advantage the 23 watt internal reflector has is a little better water resistance.
Without the reflector too much intensity is lost and therefore wasted energy.
Brian

[laffingcrow]

Incidently here is a freshwater ATS that I had running months before it came even came to my attention...
I built this bird bath with the intention of bringing the hummingbirds closer to the window for my cat to enjoy since she stays indoors.
I had no idea how many birds would find and use it...
It is nothing more than a large pot as resevoir, sealed with epoxy paint for pools and fountains, small powerhead pump, cord sealed with silicone.
Bricks to support the pot, screen mesh with rocks to hide the bricks and pump and hose through the hole in top of upside down pot.
The algae grew on the outside of the pot (did not really intend for that to happen but oh well...) and keeps the water clean as the birds deposit their nitrates and phosphates (poop).
I change the water weekly and take the whole thing apart once or twice a year. You can see in the first photo how the algae grew best on the sunny side of the pot which got turned when I cleaned it.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/61974bf2e88f57e03.jpg
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/61974bf2e88f84ccd.jpg
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/61974bf2e88fa9e8f.jpg

Like I said I had no idea how many birds from the neighborhood would find and use it daily.
Hummers (who hover and seem to float on the water like little green ducks), Hooded Oriole (pictured) Orange capped warbler (pictured) Finches who also nest outside the window every year (and sing their little hearts out), Spotted Towhees, Cal. Towhees, Wrentits, Black capped gold finches... I had to get a book just to identify all of them as they cue up every morning waiting by size and species to use the bath.
Enjoy...
Brian

[superman858mm]

hi Brian...where did u buy that bulb? thanks

[BajaReefs]

:lol: teasing the cat

[Triggler]

Thanks to Brian and his awesome tank I've been inspired and made my own ATS! Its running right now the screen is just starting to get a little green!

[laffingcrow]

hi Brian...where did u buy that bulb? thanks

Target, I think... that brand is available almost anywhere... two for around $10.

"teasing the cat"
She scratches at the window and sometimes just gets frustrated and walks away.

Triggler... be sure to post some pics once you get some good growth.

suver569... sorry to highjack your thread... got any pics of your growth, ...inventive spray bar???

Thanks,
Brian

[superman858mm]

thanks for everything Brian...

[ricenoodle]

So i am going to start one in my 60g cube once i get home. i have 2 ideas right now. you guys tell me what may work better. Tank has a rear center overflow with durso standpipe. since i'm trying to lower the volume back there anyway could i put suction cups all around the overflow and cut the screen to size so the water would drain from the tank onto the screen and into the overflow. Then add 2 clip lights on that instead? same concept right, water draining on top of screen with good lights. Or hookup a mj 1200 and have it push water through a series of 1" piping from my sump which one end is capped off hung over my fuge to be drilled with a bunch of holes and zip tie a screen there and the water draining my fuge. Which would be more efficient? I'll definately have pics up this weekend when i try this out. Oh yeah where is the best place to get the screens you guys used? Walmart or Home Depot?

[laffingcrow]

I think... if I understand what you are saying, the second option is best.
Check out post #26 page 2 of this thread to see what "fish king" did in the bucket design. Pazhope did something similar as well.
That set up is the easiest of all designs and can sit in a bucket, or sump or hang above your refugium if you have space. While the first option in your overflow has possibilities; the important thing to remember is the water flow has to be over all of the screen (screen cannot be in standing water) and your light falloff or intensity will suck at the bottom. The light needs to be within 4" or so; any farther away and it will not be as efficient as you need it to be. Even with the lights on top of the bucket design, the growth at the bottom of the screen will be less. Notice how Pazhope has his light right up against the screen and look at the growth... very even all across and up n' down...that's algae that would have grown in the tank without the ATS or lots of nutrient export some other way.
So... only a small portion of the screen should be in the water only to keep it from splashing and making noise. Any part of the screen actually in the water instead of water flowing over it will not be as efficient more like a refugium instead of the more efficient ATS. You will know what I mean once it has run for a few weeks.
Also if you just use holes instead of a slot for water flow you should think about shading the holes from the light as algae will grow out of the holes and eventually clog up big time...(notice the duct tape on pazhopes design) or make sure the water has some place to go when they do get clogged.
It's not a question of "if" they clog only when.
Also you can get the screen at Michaels or any craft store that sells needlepoint screen; if you can't find it ask them. See the picture of screen on "trigglers fuge ATS combo" in this same diy section. It's cheap and easy to find...and please don't waste your time with window screen................ as mentioned in a post above somewhere. I'm not even going to cover why.
... and this is important... scratch the hell out of both sides to make it as rough as possible to catch algae in the first few weeks until it takes root.
Also be sure to use compact flourescent 23 watts or more (see the picture above for reference) and remember to change them after four to five months (mark them with the date and do it religiously) because you are building this thing for performance... (you can not see the power loss with your eyes)... not to save on bulbs; they are cheap and can still be used somewhere else for a long time.
Hope this helps
Brian

...and post pics as well as tests once you get about four to five weeks in.:bounce:

[pazhope]

Wel have been lazy and forgot to update my tank, so I will take the opportunity since Brian just mention my scrubber.

The design I made was pretty cheap and easy, it was suppose to be temporal, but I haven't change it, and it has been running great for four months now.

I have great flow on the screen, 550 gallons in a 13 inch wide screen and the light I use is a round 33 W T5 light with a reflector so it is all over the screen.

I dont have a camera around so these pictures are from my cell phone
Today shots
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/TBBfAB-DpNI/AAAAAAAAFVE/WwggnZW-c1c/s640/IMG00408-20100609-2035.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/TBBfSYyADKI/AAAAAAAAFVQ/2QkogXJPOfY/s640/IMG00411-20100609-2036.jpg
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/TBBfFjYFUbI/AAAAAAAAFVI/dAlg4NEF_mU/s640/IMG00409-20100609-2035.jpg

Before:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S3m6U6FKGdI/AAAAAAAAFHg/oNqAzT9ePd4/s640/IMG00088-20100207-2146.jpg
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/S3gDPUd2yrI/AAAAAAAAFG4/kmx7Wm_-8NM/s640/IMG00087-20100207-1430.jpg

Can you guys see the difference? it appears I change some green for pink and red :)

The scrubber:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rBavCndhenw/TBBftK9InfI/AAAAAAAAFVk/EkhJ76xnO04/s640/IMG00415-20100609-2037.jpg

As you can see I add a couple of elbows at the end to handle the extra flow of water, normally you will see very little flow over there, but i remove the tape by accident. I am planning to put it back on the weekend.

Also the algae I am growing on the screen is more like a turf, at the beginning it was a lot of hair algae, this one is more effective you will see for your self.

[ensiferum321]

Tanks looking very healthy! Nice improvement!

[pazhope]

Forgot to add.

1.Not running any other filtration method but the ATS (not even charcoal)

2. The bucket on the right is a temporary setup for 3 b&w clowns, will get it out as soon I end building their tank.

3. I have a 2 1/2 - 3 inch sand bed mainly for pods :)

[laffingcrow]

Good job pazhope... I like your overflow elbows... how are the nutrients doing?:bounce:

[pazhope]

Tanks looking very healthy! Nice improvement!

Thanks!, will see how it works when I get my new tang

[laffingcrow]

You'll just have to feed him more since you won't have as much algae for him to eat.

[pazhope]

Good job pazhope... I like your overflow elbows... how are the nutrients doing?:bounce:

Great, I have to confess I overfeed a lot, you can see the food all over around, and I also have a smaller than recommended clean up crew, will try to fix the last one.....

Nitrates and ammonia are at 0, so I a not worry.

Corals are doing great but I am just a newbie here, so not really sure if they suppose to grow faster :). I am dosing some liquid food Will recommend to me, and I dose kalk so everything is supper easy to maintain.

[laffingcrow]

If you want to see a burst of growth on your corals use a turkey baster to stir up the detritus as often as you can.
My pistol shrimp causes a blizzard several times a day and the corals love it.

[pazhope]

If you want to see a burst of growth on your corals use a turkey baster to stir up the detritus as often as you can.
My pistol shrimp causes a blizzard several times a day and the corals love it.

Yeah, you told me that last time we speak, unfortunally I am not at home during the day, so I will try to get someone new fish to stir my sand more often, any recommendation?

I already have a piston shrimp buy mine is always hiding, not sure why

[laffingcrow]

I don't know... mine likes to make a new burrow every day... sometimes two...
He's got a little condo complex all over the bottom of the tank... I have to keep everything off my sandbed cause he's covered up zoos, mushrooms and my little starfish.

[bpro32]

pazhope: is that scrubber loud?

[Triggler]

I don't know... mine likes to make a new burrow every day... sometimes two...
He's got a little condo complex all over the bottom of the tank... I have to keep everything off my sandbed cause he's covered up zoos, mushrooms and my little starfish.

Brian what kind of Pistol Shrimp do you have?

[laffingcrow]

Brian what kind of Pistol Shrimp do you have?

He's a Tiger Pistol Shrimp
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/imagehosting/61974c1111c575747.jpg

[Acefspds]

I don't know... mine likes to make a new burrow every day... sometimes two...
He's got a little condo complex all over the bottom of the tank... I have to keep everything off my sandbed cause he's covered up zoos, mushrooms and my little starfish.

Awesome pair. I love pistol shrimps. Mine will take my frags and build them into his caves. I gotta dig for them almost everyday.

I got to figure out a way to put one of those ATS on my 60g.

[mextli]

Here are the plans I drew up. The box is built around using two, 9" 18w Coralife Mini Aqualight's. The bulbs need to be changed out to one's with a 2700k color temp, in order to get best growth.
http://phestik.com/_mextli/junk/ATS.png
Looks like a ghost buster trap.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs595.snc3/31351_1455824071538_1111416114_1365489_8364151_n.j pg
I used my router to cut out the windows. I still need to buy some 1/8th clear acrylic for the inside windows.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs595.snc3/31351_1455825951585_1111416114_1365505_1549311_n.j pg
I may change the lid a bit from my original design. The strip's on the sides need to be notched out for the power cords and On switches.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs595.snc3/31351_1455826511599_1111416114_1365512_4155281_n.j pg
I will post more updates when i drill out the holes and and the clear acrylic.

[laffingcrow]

Mextli... this has to be the best nano design I've seen yet in over 16 months of research.
Is this for the top of your tank? If so even better yet.
Great Job...;)
Brian

[pazhope]

Wow, it looks great, post pics once you install it.

[mextli]

Thanks a lot for the kind words. I guess it could be used on top of a tank but with the lights its pretty heavy. Not sure how much heavier it will be with the pipe/screen and water running through it. I made it to sit under my tank. I'm gonna build myself a 10-12g sump. I built this ATS to be a strong filter for 36g of water (ATS Jedi Master, SantaMonica, confirmed it would). Now I just need to figure out which is the best way to set up my sump. I was thinking of setting up a 3 wall bubble trap on the drain side and a single wall with teeth for a small return area.