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Cesarv4
04-27-2009, 10:12 PM
My blue atlantic tang was missing for 2 days. We moved some rock and found him stuck behind the rocks in my aquascape. He's still breathing but not swimming, just letting the current take him and moves his fins once in a while to. We're trying to spot feed him nori to see if helps.

Can I save him? Is there anything I can do?

Cesarv4
04-28-2009, 10:53 AM
He died in QT tank :confused2: :( :cry: ... RIP little guy

LotsaFishies
04-28-2009, 12:30 PM
Bummer! Sorry to hear that. AZT that point I don't think there was much you could have done...

Cesarv4
04-30-2009, 03:35 PM
SOB.. The yellow tang I just bought died in my QT tank :confused2: . Are they somehow getting the swine flu? JK. But this sucks man.. First the atlantic blue in my display and now yellow tang in ym QT that I just picked up on sunday? Water levels are all fine, temp hasn't gone higher than 80F. Does anyone know whats going on?

BTW, QT tank was cleaned and filled with scripps water.

lth03
04-30-2009, 03:56 PM
Maybe your biological system is not completed cycle yet,it is better if you wait at least 2 weeks before try to introduce another fish into your tank.

Cesarv4
05-01-2009, 06:24 PM
Both my sailfin tang and atlantic blue tang died in the past days due to ich. It came from the atl. blue tang. I think he broke out with ich from the stress of being stuck between rocks for 2 days. So the ich passed on to my sailfin t and killed it.

Then I did the stupid mistake of setting up the QT with water from the display. That caused my new yellow tang that wasn't eating to get ich and also die.

I feel really bad that I massacred 3 tangs in 1 week. I understand now what I did wrong and will not repeat the same mistake again.:cry::cry:

Whats the fastest way I can get rid of ich in my display? And how long till I can add another tang?

HandyCaptPuffer
05-01-2009, 06:40 PM
What size is your display and what are your parameters?

What other fish do you have?

How long has your tank been set up?

How are you acclimating your new fish?

jason142
05-01-2009, 06:51 PM
Cesar, the only way you are going to get rid of ich in your display is to run it fishless. I am not sure of the exact time but that is the only way. As long as there is fish, ich is going to have a host.

Cesarv4
05-01-2009, 07:52 PM
my display is 100gal. pH 8.2, ammonia 0, nitrate 0, nitrite 0.
I have 2 osc clowns and 2 blue damsels. I upgraded from a 50gal FOWLR to my 100gal 2 weeks ago. I used the water from my old tank and the rest scripps water to fill up. I drip acclimated 1 drop every 3-5 seconds for 2hrs.

Jayson, I don't mind seperating my fish to another 20gal QT, but do I also have to remove my corals?

nahtanoj
05-01-2009, 08:07 PM
2 hours is too long of an acclimation for new fish. unless it is a shipped fish there is no reason for such a lengthy acclimation. an acclimation of this length can cause a pH dip, therefore when added to your tank it get's a pH shock.
corals can stay in a fallow (no fish) tank to clear ich.
i would recommend keeping a very close eye on the fish you have left, ich does not kill very fast and there may be another underlying cause.
when/if you pull your fish and QT them i would do a dip FW or medicated to insure the ich does not travel to the QT.

Cesarv4
05-01-2009, 08:20 PM
How long should I acclimate for? How long do I do a FW dip for? Do i dip before I acclimate or after? I've researched diff articles / threads and they all suggest differet methoods. And they all contradict eachother. How long do I leave my display fallow for?

jason142
05-01-2009, 08:59 PM
If I am correct you have to leave your display fallow for at least six weeks. While you fish are in QT you could do hypo. If you do hypo then there is no reason to do a freshwater dip. Just take water from you display and use that and then over the course of the next couple of weeks you need to lower your salinity to 1.009. As soon as your salinity reaches that you can start the counter and leave them for at least 4 weeks. Using the hypo will kill any ich parasites that are left because the salinity is to low for them to live. If you have any question feel free to call or even stop by, you have my number and I will help the best that I can. Acclimation time is usually good for 45 minutes to an hour, that is what I normally do and I also put a clamp on light above to keep the water temp from dropping to much.

nahtanoj
05-01-2009, 09:57 PM
from a local fish store, my acclimation is drop fish in. if the fish is shipped i do about a 30min acclimation, this also depends on the sensitivity of the species, some will need more care than others.

Cesarv4
05-02-2009, 12:56 AM
Thanks Jayson.. Rightnow after chatting with a couple of members I was unsure if the disease is velvet or ich. My clowns strated dropping to the sand bed laying sideways and rapidly breathing when I noticed small white dots on the clowns. I believe it's velvet affecting them because of the size of the tiny white dots and how fast and hard it affected the fish, but I may be wrong and it's just ich.

I moved the clowns and damsels (the last of my fish) to my 20gal QT after a 5min FW dip. They all survived the FW dip. I am VERY confused as what to do next. Hyposalinity for ich or "Quick Cure" for velvet. Can I do both? How can I tell 100% what affected my fish according to what happened to my tangs and how the clowns look.

nahtanoj
05-02-2009, 09:05 AM
quick cure will handle both ich and velvet at normal salinity. i would not stress them with hypo and medication. just use the meds, in my opinion.

Cesarv4
05-02-2009, 10:52 AM
Got it Jon, on my way to LFS for quick cure!