150g dream tank

[Reefbabe]

To be viewed from three sides:

Tank dimensions are 48"x30"x24". Will have an external dual overflow centered in the middle end of the tank.

Returns will be plumbed on each side of the overflow powered by an external pump. Planning on using a CL for the returns to the far end of the tank and bottom side. Plumbing is very simple. I will be having a fifth hole drilled for the CL intake...it will not be drawn from the overflow (using Sequence Dart 3600GPH). Any suggestions welcomed.

Still deciding on a design for the sump. I was thinking of going with SoCal's SCC2 series and modifying to 36"x24"x20".

If you guys would be willing to take a look at this and add any suggestions to make it more efficient...please do.

I'm planning on having the tank built by SoCalCreations. The stand will be built by a family member.

[Reefbabe]

Thanks Kamil for the link. As far as putting returns on the bottom of the tank...I'm trying to stay away from that. I only plan on having one return from the external pump connected to the sump...and then Y-ing it off at the top. Holes will be predrilled through the top sides of the tank.
Since I have that huge tall cabinet, I plan on putting a few shelves in above my water top off barrel. I'll use the shelves for my ballasts and to put my CL pump on. I'm planning on running the CL (Eheim 1262) intake from the overflow and running the return over the top of the tank and again, Y-ing it off at the ends. The only balvalve I should need would be on the return from the EP since the CL is in the overflow. Please let me know if I'm off here.

About the lighting, you may be right. I have two 175w 10Ks and two 250w 20Ks on a 59"Lx18"Wx20"H 90g. I love light but, maybe I should just keep one of the dual ballasts instead of two. I also have a single 400w MH. I plan on putting an inlet fan on the end of the canopy and an outlet fan on the top of the canopy. Any suggestions on what MHs I should use would be great. Thanks.

[swissfish]

I have a room divider tank too. I love the designs with the cabinet and overflow on one side. (I wish i would have built my stand this way). Also make sure it is wide enough to aqua scape because you don't want to have walls that are too steep.
Light will be a challenge to. I will switch over to T5's, mounted to either side of the canopy and angle them to the rock. This way I can eliminate all the shade issues.

Put the fuge to the right side and the skimmer in the middle of the sump and split the return. this way the flow thought the fuge is adjustable.

And last, make sure your top off water will not siphon into the sump. Maybe top off the main tank to avoid those problems.

[swissfish]

just noticed your tank will be 30' wide. that is plenty:)
mine is only 18" :(

[Reefbabe]

My 90g is 18" wide....definately going wider! :)
I'm not sure that I totally understand your sump design. Also, could you tell me a bit more about the "top off" water. I thought that if you had an automatic float switch, that would avoid backflow? I was thinking of running a kalk reactor (never had one) with my calcium reactor....can you have your top off giong straight into the reactor and adjust that way. Thanks,
Missy

[swissfish]

the problem with float switches is, they leak after a while, specialy if you are using kalk and since your top off water level looks to be higher than the sump water level. you might have a problem somewhere down the line.
I dont use kalk and can't help you with the calk question.

the sump design: if you put the skimmer where the fuge is and the fuge where the skimmer is, then you can split the return line in two. One going to the skimmer and the other one to the fuge. If you put a ball valve on the fuge return, you will be able to adjust the flow trought the fuge.

[Reefbabe]

Looking at the different sump designs, I definately plan on T-ing off my return to the fuge now. Thanks for pointing that out. As for the top-off, I still haven't come up with anything better yet. I have an R/O unit but, connecting it straight to the tank is going to be almost impossible. Doesn't everyone use float switches...if not, what else doesn't involve topping your tank off once a day manually? Maybe a drip line would be safer?
Thanks,
Missy

[lucubrator]

The safest thing to do is to have separation between your cold water line and your tank. That is to say, to have your RO top up a reservoir, and then have another float switch that feeds water into the tank. Electronic top off units aren't too expensive, or can be DIYd if you're a little handy. Be sure to have two in case one fails.

Second, be sure that the hose leaving your reservoir has an air access point higher than the water level. If you run the hose from your reservoir to the sump, you'll end up siphoning water into the tank. The easiest way to do this is to cut or drill a small hole in the hose below the lip of the reservoir, so a little water trickles back in, and will stop siphon when it's done topping off.

Third, RO filters suffer from TDS creep, and is best alleviated by running the unit for as long as possible at a time. There are two ways to do this, one is by using a mechanical mechanism that can be found on RC, and the other is with a pair of float switches, a simple comparator, and an electronic solenoid.

Finally, if you can swing it, it's nicer to have those overflow boxes built into the tank, but off the back of the back wall. That way they dont' take up any real estate in the tank, and you avoid their unsightly presence.

[Reefbabe]

Thanks for the tips on the top-off. The overflow will be external and not inside the main display...I don't want to see it when I'm looking at my tank. It'll probably be about 16"-18"Lx4"W with dual bulkheads.
Is there any way that you have a link to visually show what you mean...if not, that's okay.
Thanks

[lucubrator]

http://static.zoovy.com/img/theh2oguru/-/anti_tds/anti_tds_device_with_storage_x2

That's a commercial one. The float valve is inside that white thing, and there's a one way air valve at the top. When water fills up inside the drum, the whole thing fills up, and the water pushes out the air.

When water is used, the water stays up inside the white thing until the water level in the drum around it is so low that it allows air into the white thing, and the water falls down and out, and then the float valve drops. It then fills up the whole drum again.

[Reefbabe]

That's pretty cool. Looks like I'll have to do some research and make up a DIY project for the hubby (aircraft electronics tech). I'm sure he'll have fun with it!

[Reefbabe]

Alright, I've been going through a few DIY sites and came across the "probe" top off system. This sounds much easier only in this example, I won't be using kalk:
http://www.janetsreef.com/auto.htm

Any complications I should worry about other than the suction cups coming loose?

[Reefbabe]

Okay, I've decided to go with an Eheim 1262 (less than 700GPH 6') for the return from the sump. Going to have an ASM G2 (recirc mod) driven by a 1200 maxijet for skimming. This should give me a slow enough flow rate to skim effectively. The CL pump will be a Sequence Dart (2400gph @ 6').

Wanted to down grade on the lights by using two T-5s driven by a 430 Icecap ballast and dual 250w MHs.

[swissfish]

if you use the overflow as your CL feed you'll be drawing to a lot of water into the overflow and you might have bubble truble.

[Reefbabe]

Ya, I edited last night. I was going to use the Eheim as my CL but, changed my mind and put it in the sump for slow flow. I'm going to use the Dart instead and drill another hole through the side (not overflow) and slap a screen on there. There'd be no way that the overflow could keep up. Now that the Eheim's on the sump, I don't need as big an overflow either.

[Reefbabe]

Alot has changed from my original design.
Unknown to me....Socalcreations has finished my tank!!! I wasn't planning on it being finished until a few weeks after the holidays.....Randy's on it!

48"x30"x24" (Veiwed through both sides and one end)
http://www.socalcreations.com/current_creations/missy.htm

I decided to go with a dual external Calfo Overflow (clear...pictured on the table at the end of the tank) that runs the length of the 30" painted side of the tank. I have my CL intake drilled at the bottom corner of that side as well. 4 CL returns are drilled at each corner of the underside/bottom of the tank and I will be using an Oceanmotion 4-way with it powered by a DART. I have 2 returns drilled through the end corners of the top brace for my sump returns which will be powered by an Eheim 1262.

Now to get ahold of SDA619 and see when he's finishing the sump. :D


Ahhhhh...I love a work in progress!

[Reefbabe]

HAHA!!!! I was thinking about doing that all day today. I thought I had a box of spare pvc elbows laying around but couldn't find them. I wish I had enough time to run to Lowes but had to do yard work instead. Whatcha come up with? Does it work (biting my nails)?