Drilling glass tank

[dvincent]

Are there any members out there that do Glass tank drilling? The tricky part is that this is a set up established 180 gal. tank. PM me if Interested.

[Dakota]

already set up?hrm.. I've successfuly drilled my acrylic tank a few times while filled, but glass may be different. The shavings (or powder) can't be healthy to drop in the tank, and the need to keep the drill bit wet while drilling may be an issue as well. I know David M. drills tanks, but I have no idea how plausable drilling a setup glass tank would be.

[sacredfire]

I belive it has to had not been tempered.

If its tempered glass the whole sheet of glass will shatter. Glass tanks are pre-drilled/ordered with the holes to your specs then tempered for safety.


I dont know how to tell the difference of the two.

[dvincent]

This particular one is not tempered, i got it from ron at OG. My goal is to drill the back for 2 bulkhead drains. If I can get them done and they are successful I might want the two returns done also. Darrin

[sacredfire]

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-PC-DIAMOND-TILE-GLASS-HOLE-SAW-DRILL-BITS-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ7586432681QQcategoryZ20790QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

[reef]

That's a great deal for the glass bits. Oddly, it is missing the 1 3/4" bit used for drilling standard 1" and 3/4" bulkheads.

[jwelch87]

contact davidm, i believe he drills glass.

[dbrooks]

DVincent,

If you are thinking if buying bits, I will go in with you. I have a tank that needs drilling as well.

Or...perhaps DavidM has bits that we can "rent" (while he is showing us how to drill the tank).

[IgotCrabs]

david, has drilled a glass tank for me.
tools he used were: a drill, a drill bit for the appropriate size hole, a wooden stencil and a clamp to hold the wooden stencil up against the glass tank,
place pressure on tank with the drill while applying water and wait until it goes all the way through. takes some time if its thick. My 10 gallon took a solid 5 minutes to go all the way through

[dbrooks]

I read a thread once that spoke of the differences between tempered and non-tempered glass (ie how to tell the difference between the two). I can't seem to find it via the search engine. Anyone out there know how to tell the difference?

Thanks

DBrooks

[David M]

According to the several glass shops I have asked, there IS no way to tell if glass has been tempered. I even thought some sort of spectral devise might do it, they say no. Usually only large and very high end tanks are tempered, and even then only the bottom. No way a Lee Mar or Visio is made with tempered glass. When new most tanks have a sticker indicating the panel is tempered and big red letters saying "DO NOT DRILL" :D

I would not throw my money away on those eBay bits, there is nothing worse than a cheapo diamond bit (voice of experience here). Also as pointed out they are the wrong sizes for standard tank bulkheads. The best ones I've found are sold by Jehmco.

You can drill a tank in place but consider the increased risk if it cracks. I have drilled several filled tanks without any problems so far. Still, not the best choice. The ground glass is, well, what's the word I'm looking for.... oh yea... SAND :cool: Not too worried about it getting into the tank. Oh and there is no mess, I drill from the inside out. ;)

[dbrooks]

Thanks David. Unfortunately, I bought this tank used so I haven't the slightest idea if it's tempered - although I bet not. I am confident enough in it NOT being tempoered that I am going to give it a shot and drill it.

What is your personal opinion of bottom drilling (both drain and return are o the bottom pane)? I like it because you can hide everything in the stand and place a tank in the middle of the room.

What size bit is "standard" for bulkheads?

Dave

[David M]

For a freestanding tank drilling the bottom is the only way to go. Otherwise I prefer to drill the back or end for a couple reasons. #1- I HATE internal overflow boxes! Damn tank was expensive enough without wasting a big chunk of it on a stupid black box :D Again for the "island tank" you need it but otherwise I think it's a waste of space. #2- Noise. When you drain through the bottom the water is constantly trying to cover the hole, air pushes up and you get that horrible gurgle. Yes you can DIY a durso but that takes up even more room, hence bigger black box. Also, why go through all that anyway? When you drain out the side water passes through the bulkhead and spills over into the drainpipe, like a cascade. It never tries to block the entire opening hence no gurgle, just a trickle sound. Even better is to use a "T" on the back side of the bulkhead rather than a 90, one open end pointing up. A drain needs to vent just like the plumbing in your house (all thos pipes sticking up from your roof). 3#- Tank sides are rarely tempered :D :D :D

Standard bulkheads for some 3/4 & all 1" require a 1-3/4" hole. A 1-1/2" bulkhead needs a 2-3/8 hole. Offhand I'm not sure about larger bulkheads but the info is easy enough to find.

[WanaLeime]

DavidM-Instead of draining from the side...can you drain from the back, but in the same way you explained? I think I'll try that...Im starting to see your point about overflow boxes....Takes up to much space and cost too $$$ to add.

[acbaldwin]

For the record, the tanks at Petco have tempered bottoms, and for some reason I have a feeling that they're not high end...
BTW, Nick (EmoEzekielsr5) just got an overflow for 10 stinky bucks... Personally, I'd be WAY too worried about 180 gallons on the floor to drill a filled tank...

[David M]

NoIwon'tlayou- Of course, back. side, front, who cares??? :D

Baldwin, if you mean a hang on overflow box I'd take my chances with drilling :rolleyes: That is an almost guaranteed flood and you won't be there prepared for it either. They usually fail at around 3am :confused:

[WanaLeime]

Sorry to sound like a NEWB, but I used to prefer hang-on overflow types never really delt with just holes =)....So you would just get a hole drilled, add strainer(?), bulkhead, pvc, T fitting w/ cap.....??? doese that sound right? Thanks for the INFO DavidM....

[David M]

That's about it :) I use a 90 on the inside of the tank also, you can rotate it to set the water level where you want it.

[acbaldwin]

Baldwin, if you mean a hang on overflow box I'd take my chances with drilling :rolleyes: That is an almost guaranteed flood and you won't be there prepared for it either. They usually fail at around 3am :confused:

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying go with an HOB overflow... Big pain in the ass, lemme tell ya:p . If it were me, I'd break down the tank at least 70% of the way, then drill... No way I'd take the chance with my livestock:eek: .

[Dakota]

Hey, David, I got a quick question. do you use a powerhead to spray the tank water on the hole you are drilling when drilling from INSIDE a filled tank? OR how to you keep the site wet? Any need to if you go super slow?

[David M]

I usually just use a cup and pour water as I drill, but yeah I have thought about using a p-head. The diamond bits will drill dry just fine, it's actually faster. BUT more heat buildup means a greater chance of a crack and a shorter life for the bit. From time to time I drill dry for one reason or another, haven't had any problems.